Luxury Fever
Consumers are buying up everything from diamond-encrusted handbags and private jets to souped-up trash cans and designer toilets. How long will the boom last?
By Kate Betts
Fall 2004 Style & Design
Michael Kors is a pro at selling expensive clothes to very rich
women. At personal appearances in department stores, he has been
known to move $85,000 worth of merchandise in just one hour. But
this year has been different. This year Kors says his wealthy
clientele is out of controlthey're spending like it's 1999. One
New Yorker ordered two pairs of gold-beaded pants for $8,900
each. At a trunk show in Short Hills, N.J., Kors sold five purple
mink ponchos for $7,825 each. Like many purveyors of luxury
goods, Kors has seen his business increase 40% in the past year.
And that's not because he's selling a lot of T shirts and jeans.
"Even younger people are buying more luxury items," he says.
"Teenagers are buying our shoes and bags."
Despite rising interest rates, staggering energy prices (gasoline
has climbed 30% in the U.S. in the past year) and the general
state of unrest in the world, conspicuous consumption is back.
According to a study by the Italian association Altagamma, U.S.
sales of high-end goods grew 27.7% in the first five months of
this year, and consumer confidence is way up, hitting a two-year
high in July.
"Luxury is so prevalent now," says Carol Brodie, spokeswoman for
jewelry company Harry Winston. "You see so much heavy-duty
cashmere and fur in the stores. It hasn't been like this since
the 1980s." Indeed, the fall collections are among the most
extravagant in recent history, with fur trim and crystal beading
showing up on every tweed coat and charmeuse evening dress.
Thanks to the weak dollar against the euro, prices for these
clothes are up a whopping 20%, but so are sales. Houses like
Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior and Gucci have all reported
double-digit increases in the second quarter.
"The winds are definitely back in the luxury business," says John
Idol, CEO of Michael Kors LLC. "Department stores are doing well
again because they are trading up. They know they can't compete
with Kohl's and Target." Stores like Neiman Marcusfamous for
selling everything from $20 million submarines to $400,000
his-and-hers robots in its over-the-top Christmas catalogare
leveraging the luxury sector by appealing to that 1% of the U.S.
that controls more than 30% of the country's wealth. Apparently
it's working. According to Neiman Marcus president and CEO Karen
Katz, the luxury-goods retailer has sold more alligator shoes
this year than in the past three years combined.
It's a pretty stark contrast to a year ago when luxury players
were desperately searching for signs of recovery after months of
falling stock markets and lackluster consumer confidence brought
on by the Sept. 11 attacks. "What's happened is there is a
necessity for a feel-good factor for luxury," says Dana Telsey,
luxury-goods analyst for Bear Stearns. "With the improvement in
the environment, especially after SARS and the war in Iraq, the
demand for better products is expanding to all different
levelsfrom the superpremium, like private jets and resort
residences, to the accessible Coach."
Awareness of the luxury market has also played a part in the
growth. "There is definitely a thirst for higher-end brands
because consumers know what quality is, and that's because
retailers have taught them how to recognize it," says Telsey.
"Now it's about lifestylethe aesthetic look of the store, the
advertising. Everyone wants to be able to live the dream."
That dream extends far beyond fashion. Technology is increasingly
one of the places where luxury spenders splurge, from mobile
phones to giant flat-screen televisions. Mobile-phone makers are
introducing luxury models, such as the $19,450 platinum Vertu, in
order to increase sales. And in Japan, because of the change to
digital signals there, sales of big-screen LCD TVs have jumped
62%, prompting companies like Sharp to release the $9,000 45-in.
LCD Aquos.
According to a recent American Express Platinum Luxury survey,
59% of affluent Americans (those with incomes of $100,000 or
higher) would rather spend on experiential luxuriesrestaurants,
travel and entertainmentthan on gadgets and goods. Pam
Danziger, president of Unity Marketing, which conducted the
survey, says the rise in experiential luxury is directly
proportional to the wealth of the baby-boomer generation, which
will be profoundly influential on the economy through 2010.
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