Giorgio Armani
On the eve of his 30th anniversary, the master of Italian tailoring opens up about his past regrets and possible successors
By Kate Betts; Giorgio Armani
Winter 2004 Style & Design
After three decades in the fashion business, Giorgio Armani wants to
broaden his image as practical designer for the working woman to include
a more eccentric look. Also on the drawing board for Italy's top
purveyor of ready-to-wear: a new exclusive perfume called Privé, a
younger clientele and a peek at the future of his eponymous house. Here
TIME's Kate Betts talks to the designer about why he will never consider
an IPO, where he looks for inspiration and what it takes to survive so
long in fashion.
THIS SPRING YOU OPENED A FLAGSHIP IN SHANGHAI. WHAT WERE YOUR
IMPRESSIONS OF CHINA?
I went to Beijing, Shanghai and Hong Kong. It was a great revelation to
see how China is changing, to see the old China next to the new China,
and to see the shock for all these Chinese people, especially in
Shanghai, to suddenly have these huge, extravagant skyscrapers all
around. There is such a contrast between the old and new China that it
can be shocking to take it in.
NEXT YEAR IS YOUR 30TH ANNIVERSARY. WHAT HAS BEEN THE BIGGEST CHANGE IN
YOUR FASHION CAREER?
Last winter was a turning point for me personally because I started to
move away from the typical cliché of the designer who dresses the
working woman. I wanted to put more fantasy into my collections. I was
scared that it would be too shocking for the buyers and clients, but it
worked. Women love Armani, but they are changing. The women who bought
Armani in the past still buy it, but more younger women are buying it.
YOU HAVE BEEN TALKING ABOUT RETIRING IN FIVE YEARS. ARE YOU STILL
PLANNING TO DO THAT?
I could continue to work for another 10 or 15 years, but I have to
prepare the house for the future without me. So I have to examine the
possibilities.
HAS THERE BEEN INTEREST FROM LUXURY GROUPS?
Yes, there was Bernard Arnault [at LVMH] and Gucci, [whose former chief]
Domenico De Sole wanted to combine his company with Armani. But I said
no. There were other proposals too that I didn't accept because the
conditions were not clear for me. It was not clear where I would fit in.
I had some very interesting proposals. Arnault wanted to combine the
houses of Armani and Vuitton, which was interesting because I could have
done ready-to-wear for them and they could have done accessories for me.
But I could not accept being a minority shareholder after so many years
of work.
HAVE YOU CONSIDERED AN IPO?
No. This is such a personal business that you can't have share-holders
who question why you have invested #1 million in a runway show. And the
stock market is so demanding. If you don't grow 20% every season, the
business collapses.
WHO IS THE DESIGNER YOU MOST ADMIRE?
From a creative point of view, it's [John] Galliano, especially for the
spectacle. And [Jean Paul] Gaultier has done things that I would love to
have done. He has a very strong, sexy spirit. I admire him a lot for
that. [Alexander] McQueen is also very inventive, but he can be very
hard-edged.
IF YOU COULD CHOOSE, WHO WOULD SUCCEED YOU?
Gaultier, because he does things that are very special, but the complete
picture is always elegant. Even a hat, a gesture, is always elegant, and
that is modern.
WHAT IS YOUR BIGGEST REGRET?
The lost opportunities for human contact. In the past, maybe I was too
hard sometimes. I shut people out because it was necessary for my
success. In this business there are so many different elements we have
to juggle—the business, the press, the clients. When you mix it all up,
sometimes you lose contact with people in the process.
WHAT IS YOUR GREATEST FEAR?
The only thing that really scares me is illness. To be poor is not a
problem for me. Even when I was poor I didn't have a problem with it.
But illness can take over your life, and it can keep you from doing
everything you love.
YOU HAVE MADE A LOT OF CHANGES IN YOUR LIFE RECENTLY. WHAT IS THE ONE
CONSTANT?
The way I dress. I will never wear bright colors or pale colors. Only
navy blue or black. The rest doesn't work for me.
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His life and death recalled in images
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