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Luxury's Frontier



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Spring 2005 Style & Design
Growing up in China in the 1960s and '70s, designers like Han Feng and magazine publishers like Hung Huang had no experience with fashion at all. Back then, there were no fashion magazines or designer labels to speak of, only drab Mao suits. But that's changing as Chinese women begin to embrace style and, in turn, as Western luxury-goods companies like Louis Vuitton bet on the future of the Chinese market. At places like Shanghai's deluxe shopping center Three on the Bund, once grimy windows are now filled with the latest from Giorgio Armani, Ermenegildo Zegna and Cartier. And local magazines like Hung's Beijing-based I-Look advertise the latest from Proenza Schouler and Narciso Rodriguez. Sales of cosmetics and other beauty products in China have ballooned from $24 million in 1982 to a projected $21 billion this year. This special issue of TIME is dedicated to the rise of the Asian luxury market—from the burgeoning Chinese cosmetics business to the influence of Japanese shopping habits on Western designers. These days Asian designers like Nigo of A Bathing Ape and Jun Takahashi of Under Cover are as influential abroad as their Western counterparts. While Japan remains the leader in luxury-goods consumption, the most profound changes are happening in mainland China, where young women are discovering the magic of Louis Vuitton bags and Crème de la Mer face products. As Joanne Ooi, creative director of the Hong Kong—based luxury emporium Shanghai Tang, says, "The train is about to leave the station in China." —Kate Betts



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