Detour

Pagan's majesty is spellbinding. "The most wondrous sight in Southeast Asia," splutters one guidebook. "Awesome," murmurs a tourist on seeing this spectacular central west Burmese plain packed with more than 2,000 temples, stupas and stuccoed ancient ruins.

The city was the royal capital of one of the world's great civilizations. Erected by the Bamar dynasty during an upsurge of Buddhist religious zeal, Pagan entered its Golden Age half a millennium before Columbus stumbled upon the New World. At the end of the 13th century, Moguls overran it. Though the vast wooden city is long gone, its sun-red and whitewashed sculpted stone skeleton remains, a mini-skyscraper skyline dating back 1,000 years.

Pagan's remoteness is part of its appeal. Frequent hour-long flights depart Rangoon, but seem too fast a path to such an ancient landmark. Better to start farther north in Mandalay and drift down the Irrawaddy River, the nation's 1,500-km lifeline, which snakes around the ancient city. The 16-hour ferry from Mandalay is $10. Other boats, including luxury liners, ply the length of the river.

Once there, many linger. Pagan is timeless, with little development to intrude on views. Getting around is easy. Pony carts hire by the hour or day (bargain hard) and bicycles cost $1 daily. The tight group of temples in Old Pagan is most stunning: take a flashlight to see the vast, dimly lit golden Buddhas and frescoes inside and lose yourself in history.

For a celestial view of this Manhattan of ancient monuments, Balloons Over Bagan offers sunrise and sunset flights for $225 per person for up to an hour. Call or fax: (951) 660-446).

R.G.