Urban Retreats for Stressed-Out Seouls

Seo

ul. To the English speaker the name suggests peace, calm, harmony. A sort of Buddhist New York, so good they named it nice. But to those who have visited, the South Korean capital will forever conjure up images of smog, traffic and crowds. If Seoul has a song, it is played on that ubiquitous instrument of sonic torture, the jackhammer. Home to 10.8 million people, which by some estimates makes it the world's fifth largest city, Seoul could scarcely be called a haven of serenity. Or could it?

Nestled between office blocks on beautiful Sam Gak Mountain to the north of the city is the Seoul International Zen Center, attached to the scenic Haw Gye Sa Temple. The complex offers foreigners a chance to study meditation and Korean Buddhism in free lessons held (in English) every Sunday afternoon.

Closely related to Japanese Zen Buddhism, the main school of Korean religious thought is Son. Practiced on the peninsula for 1,600 years, the faith went into decline after World War II. But Son has enjoyed a recent revival. In a reaction to the Westernization that accompanied rapid economic development, South Koreans are now rediscovering their identity. The renewed interest has seen a return to the mass pilgrimages of the past and huge donations for temple repair.

Sessions at the center are held in a bare attic room over which a lone golden statue of Buddha presides from a central wooden altar. Incense fills the room with its soporific scent. Followers meditate by sitting cross-legged in silence facing the wall. Posture is paramount: practitioners must keep a straight spine and their heads balanced lightly on the shoulders while also leaning slightly forward. Legs are crossed; with practice the knees will touch the floor.

To begin meditating, focus on controlled breathing. Purge all thought, particularly the "three poisons" of greed, anger and ignorance, and concentrate on the here and now. Alternatively focus on Hwadu, known in Japanese as Koan, an enigmatic and ill-defined term that describes the apex of the concentrated mind. Followers of both methods hope to achieve inner peace, illumination and, ultimately, enlightenment. Beginners, however, will probably have to settle for a little relative tranquillity.

The center also offers retreats lasting from a week to three months. While not to everyone's taste, the extended experience is a rare chance to peek into the traditional Korean lifestyle. The regime is rigorous. Guests must maintain total silence and cut all communication with the outside world. Only the traditional monastery attire of gray pants and jacket is allowed, and beds are bare futon mats on the floor. Food is plain, vegetarian and served with elaborate ceremony at formal meals. A typical evening dinner comprises rice, soup and a few vegetable dishes. Everything that's served has to be eaten. Retreats cost $175 a week, $585 a month or $1,200 for the full three months. Call (82-2) 900-4326 or e-mail sizc@soback.kornet.net.

For those looking for simple peace and quiet rather than deep meditation, there is the picturesque Gil Sang Sa Temple on Pukhan Mountain, also north of the capital. A former restaurant, the building does not share the open-plan design of traditional temples but rather has modest rooms jutting out on rocky ledges. One chamber is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. and is free to visitors. The space can seat a maximum of eight people on a large floor cushion. Speaking is forbidden, all the better to relax to the sound of songbirds and wind chimes stirring in the gentle breeze. The room is also equipped with a stereo system on which guests can play instrumental music to accompany their repose.

After your reverie, come back down to earth with tea blended from fruits such as Chinese dates or plums. Or attend a ceremony at the temple's green tea house, which looks out onto a small copse and a graceful traditional pagoda that supports a massive bronze bell. For those in need of a jolt of the real world, there will be no objections if you bring your own coffee. For more information call (82-2) 3672-5945 or e-mail kilsangsa@yahoo.co.kr. More information can also be had from Seoul's expat Buddhist community: call the Lotus Lantern Buddhist Center at (82-2) 735-5347.