In Milan, the Coat Goes Haute

Judging from the Fall/Winter 2008-2009 menswear collections in Milan this week, global warming hasn't been much of an issue for designers. Coats of every color turned up on runways here, while retailers joked that they were the one item they didn't necessarily need, given the recent fluctuations in weather. Still, designers did their best to give coats a grand, new twist, whether they were supersized shearlings like the one that opened Dolce & Gabbana's rock 'n' roll-inspired show or the exotic, Tibetan-inspired poncho shearling and paisley embroidered coats at Alexander McQueen's Mongolian-meets-Mayan show. Meanwhile, Frida Gianinni took the Gucci man on an exotic trip to post-revolutionary Russia, returning with some pretty extravagant greatcoats festooned with Cossack-inspired embroideries and fur-and-velvet trim. Even the traditional pea coat and overcoat were revamped in supersized proportions at houses like Bottega Veneta and Ferragamo. Bottega Veneta designer Tomas Maier said he had been inspired by functional work wear from the 19th century. At Ferragamo the theme was discreet luxury, with loosened up pea coats lined in lynx. Shoppers can look forward to fending off the chill next winter — whether or not the weather complies.