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GUESTHOUSE FOR A GOD It's not easy playing charades when a member of the opposing team is a casting agent from Bollywood. Or the god Krishna (or at least his small-screen personification, in the form of an actor who played the blue-faced hero in a popular TV version of the Mahabharata). Against that kind of competition, acting out the other Hindu epic, the Ramayana, for my team of mortals was a challenge. But, lulled by the setting, my fellow guests didn't seem to mind. We were 30 m above the Narmada River on the ramparts of Maheshwar's Ahilya Fort, which coincidentally figures in both epics. It was a clear winter's night, cool enough to welcome the warmth of the charcoal braziers. Below us, men played drums and chanted prayers to the virgin goddess Narmada while they floated candles down her sacred river.

Of all the heritage hotels of north India—from the restored manors of rich merchants and courtiers to the forts of the country's former rulers—none can compare with the Maharaja of Indore's summer palace at Ahilya Fort. Although the grounds are extensive—a seemingly never-ending series of lush courtyard gardens—the fort can house no more than a score of guests in its nine well-appointed suites. The rooms, complete with rough-hewn stone walls, colonial-era furnishings and frothy mosquito nets (a year-round necessity), offer impressive views over the river and ramparts. The greatest luxury, however, is the sumptuously prepared food—a successful fusion of European and Indian cuisines. Despite the paucity of restaurant options in Maheshwar, guests needn't fear tiring of dining at the fort: each meal is served in a different garden.

Only a two-hour drive from Mandu, Ahilya Fort offers a splendid base for exploring the ancient ruins without having to partake of the standard backpacker fare. But to get this far off the beaten path, be prepared to open your wallet. A room costs $150 a night, all meals and drinks inclusive. After all, Krishna would never be seen in a cheap dive. For reservations, call (91-11) 464-4547 or go to ahilyafort.com.