Posted Monday, November 15, 2004; 21:00 HKT
Among the more curious sights in Laos is the Plain Of Jars. It's a large area in Xieng Khuang province, where dozens of huge, ancient stone urns lie scattered. Although their origin and purpose are unknown, they are thought to be some 2,000 years old.

After a long morning spent looking at these puzzling vessels, refreshment is a convivial prospect—and none more so than Bia Lao. Bottled since 1973 on the outskirts of Vientiane by the Lao Brewery Co., it's an arrestingly crisp brew and also the universal accompaniment to the local cuisine—a cooking style that blends the raw textures of Vietnamese food with the piquancy of Thai spices. There's no stinting on quality: Bia Lao is made from Pilsen malt imported from France, Hallertauer Magnum hops and dry yeast from Germany, and local rice and springwater. The brewers clearly take their calling with appropriate seriousness.

These are factors that have propelled Bia Lao to the top of Asia's beer league. So have the brew's emotional connotations. For wherever you are in the world, one sip of Bia Lao and you are instantly transported to a riverside bistro in Vientiane. The long lunches, the French-colonial streets, the wats and murmuring monks: it all comes back with exquisite precision.

Whoever imagined that Laos could create this foaming magic? It's enough to make you wonder if those ancient stone jars might once have served as beer kegs.

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