Posted Monday, November 15, 2004; 21:00 HKT
The fishermen of Donsol, 540 km southeast of Manila, knew for generations that pods of up to 60 whale sharks would gather offshore each year from February to May. But the first scientific sightings weren't made until 1998. When word spread, the many divers and scientists who have spent their whole careers pursuing a glimpse of these elusive behemoths fought one another for seats on the first flight to Donsol. Tourists followed.

Happily, this surge of interest has not driven the whale sharks away. Known locally as butandings, they are the world's largest fish, reaching up to 15 m in length. Unlike other sharks, they are docile, and are drawn to the waters near Donsol because of the unusually plentiful plankton there. The local government is working with the World Wildlife Fund for Nature to turn the area into a whale-shark sanctuary. Under carefully regulated conditions—which forbid touching the sharks, flash photography and the use of any equipment except mask, snorkel and fins—you can swim with these magnificent giants. It costs just over $50 for a permit, boat and guide, and while one hesitates to use the phrase "a whale of a time," that's exactly what you'll have.

With reporting by Nelly Sindayen

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