The Kingdom of the Divine — page 4

THE CULTURE CLASH
An oversimplified interpretation of the Heisenberg uncertainty principle holds that by observing a physical phenomenon, you have irrevocably altered it. By the same token, we can identify the travel corollary of the Heisenberg principle, which states: simply by visiting a foreign land, you have unavoidably changed it. If the country is particularly remote and unsullied, are you helping to destroy precisely what drew you there in the first place? Such questions comprise the subtext of many discussions about Aman's arrival in Bhutan. Should Bhutan fear Aman? Should we fear Aman on Bhutan's behalf?

	There will be no bungee jumping in Bhutan. We want people to see us as we are. —LHATU WANGCHUK,  director general of tourism

"There is no doubt that our mere presence has a significant social impact," says Zecha. "And with that comes tremendous responsibilities." He acknowledges that even the conventional rationalizations—that foreign companies provide jobs, for example—are problematic, because the high-paying jobs they provide create communities with haves and have-nots where everyone was once equal. Aman executives say some of the best impact the company can have is to effect positive changes in areas such as construction technology and hospitality standards, while keeping its environmental footprint as small as possible—for example, by treating their own water, generating some of their own electricity, recycling their own waste and helping with local reforestation efforts.

Government officials, meanwhile, note that Aman's six resorts will boast a total of only 80 rooms, so it's not like a tidal wave of humanity will be added to the 7,000 foreigners already arriving annually. And they see little outrage in the fact that Aman customers are not just wealthy but paying more per night than the $700 the average Bhutanese makes per year. "With the $200 minimum," says Lhatu Wangchuk, director general of Bhutan's Department of Tourism, "all of the foreigners Bhutanese people see, they already see as incredibly rich. So I don't think even a factor of five matters too much."

But there is a smaller and admittedly more subtle objection to the Aman way. Bhutan has so far succeeded in managing its travel industry in a manner that balances revenue generation with the preservation of its own culture. And it has done so proudly. "We will not create an attraction that is not in keeping with Bhutanese history and culture," says Wangchuk. "There will be no bungee jumping in Bhutan, for example. That is not us. We want people to see us as we are."

That is a noble priority. But some worry that the kind of travelers who refused to visit the country until Aman made it sufficiently luxurious may prove to be a new and potentially regrettable variety of foreigner. Until now, Bhutan has appealed to an undeniably wealthy but still up-for-anything crowd that could adapt to a lack of minor modern conveniences and basic amenities. But the social prejudices of someone who doesn't feel safe in a new location until Aman clears the path could present a fresh challenge. The superclass of travelers that will soon start showing up may be willing to "see the Bhutanese as they are," as Wangchuk puts it, but they are not willing, even for a night, to live like them. It is a distinction that has given pause to Kuensel, the nation's weekly newspaper. In an editorial, the paper wondered if the country hadn't hit a threshold at which, for the first time, the visitors' "personal comfort will probably be more of interest than our culture or environment." Get ready, Bhutan, for the Amanjunkies.

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