KITSCH REPORT

Hong Kong once dined out on its status as a gateway to China. But now that the business world can deal directly with the mainland, the former British colony is coming to resemble another big Chinese city: Shanghai. Or Shanghai during its 1930s heyday, to be precise, when that burg was considered the "Paris of the East." A number of Hong Kong establishments are dolled up in old Shanghai style, when the smart set ate elegantly, drank decadently and dressed divinely:

Lexus Showroom, Connaught Road This Wanchai car dealership is styled as a sumptuous Shanghai salon--so close, you'd swear it was the wheel McCoy.

Shanghai Clipper, Exchange Square Get your tresses trimmed, your shoes shined or your feet fussed over in high style.

Spring Moon, The Peninsula The Art Deco look (circa 1928, when it first opened) and new menu have been luring back the ladies who lunch to this recently relaunched restaurant at the Pen.

Shanghai Shanghai, The Ritz-Carlton A chichi retro-rant tucked away in the basement.

Club Shanghai, Regent Hotel This Kowloon-side nightspot serves up Shanghai food, costumed staff, live jazz and opium beds (sans opium) for private functions.

China Lan Kwai Fong, Central The menu is a mainland melange, but the decor would be right at home on the Bund.

Club 1911, Staunton Street One of the first bars to put Soho (the hipsters' haunt south of Hollywood Road) on the map.

Shanghai Tang, Pedder Street Purveyors of neon-hued Chinoiserie since 1994; now online (see "Web Crawling," right).