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Shanghai is wonderful, but if you'd like an escape from the big city try the Shapo Guesthouse in Ningxia province. To get there, fly one hour ($120 each way) to Yinchuan, and then hire a car and driver for the four-hour trip southwest to Shapotou. The final stretch involves a sled ride down a tall sand dune to the guesthouse, set on the banks of the Yellow River. At $20 a night, it's basic (you may want to bring food). But all will be forgiven after a day of exploring the surrounding Zhongwei valley, a verdant oasis of hills and hollows. You can travel by horse or camel for less than $12 an hour. There's also a gorgeous diversion north to Beichangtai village, site of the area's only remaining waterwheel.
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OFF THE SHELF Few cities on earth have experienced the turmoil of this century more poignantly than Shanghai, and few books have brought to life its vibrancy and debauchery, color and horror
WEB CR@WLING Fancy taking a dram with the Shanghai Scotch Malt Whiskey society? Or savoring a stogie with the cigar club? Then find out more at Shanghai-ed, the online version of Shanghai Now
SHORT CUTS If you wake up in Shanghai to clear skies, seize the opportunity to get an overview of the cityscape on a U.S.-built Bell 212 helicopter
DETOURS Try the Shapo Guesthouse in Ningxia province if you'd like an escape from the big city
HOT TIP Fuyou market, a sprawling four-story mock Qing dynasty arcade, is a colorful and entertaining source of antiques
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