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   S H A N G H A I   C I T Y   G U I D E

HOT TIP

While Shanghai has no shortage of antique stores, both state-run and privately owned, a more colorful and entertaining source of items of local historical interest is the markets. The biggest and best-known is Fuyou market, a sprawling four-story mock Qing dynasty arcade at the corner of Henan Nan and Fang Bang Nan streets. Be warned that one trip is seldom enough. Start at the top floor to peruse wares on offer from scores of independent dealers, many from outside the city. The selection varies from week to week but usually includes ceramic pots, hand-woven rugs, bakelite telephones, blue-and-white porcelain, petite concubines' shoes, faded revolutionary posters, furniture, well-thumbed Tintin comic books, wicker suitcases, eyeglasses, folding rulers, Mao's little red books ... When antique fatigue sets in and you can carry no more, head to the nearby Yu Yuan gardens for a spot of cha at the Huxinting teahouse. A mere $3 gets you a selection of Chinese teas and snacks, plus free performances by songbirds and practitioners of Tai Chi and qigong.




OFF THE SHELF
Few cities on earth have experienced the turmoil of this century more poignantly than Shanghai, and few books have brought to life its vibrancy and debauchery, color and horror

WEB CR@WLING
Fancy taking a dram with the Shanghai Scotch Malt Whiskey society? Or savoring a stogie with the cigar club? Then find out more at Shanghai-ed, the online version of Shanghai Now

SHORT CUTS
If you wake up in Shanghai to clear skies, seize the opportunity to get an overview of the cityscape on a U.S.-built Bell 212 helicopter

DETOURS
Try the Shapo Guesthouse in Ningxia province if you'd like an escape from the big city

HOT TIP
Fuyou market, a sprawling four-story mock Qing dynasty arcade, is a colorful and entertaining source of antiques

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