Detour

Although it's pricier than most other parts of Kuala Lumpur, Bangsar Baru is the place to be. Known to locals simply as Bangsar, the area comprises nine rows of converted shophouses along Jalan Telawi. When the sun's up, the sidewalks bustle with window-shoppers, executives dashing off to power lunches, bookstore-browsers and tourists searching for memorable keepsakes in the strip's trendy shops and galleries. Art-seller Valentine Willie offers a wide-ranging collection of contemporary Southeast Asian works at his shop across from Modesto's bistro. The gregarious proprietor and his cousin Maryanne, who manages the gallery, can also provide the lowdown on interesting local and regional artists for prospective art-buyers.

Bangsar's daytime bustle is tame compared with what takes place after dark, when the night owls descend for an evening's entertainment. Start things off with a leisurely meal at one of the area's many restaurants. There's something to sate nearly every craving. Head to Alexis for delicious Malay dishes like Sarawak-style laksa noodles in coconut sauce or nasi ulam, an eastern Malaysian herbed-rice dish. For Italian food, Grappa, Angelucci or Manja all offer modern Mediterranean meals, K.L.-style. The White Rajah caters to steak-lovers, while Wagamama serves a variety of noodle dishes from all over Asia. If you're more in the mood for Chinese, Indian, Japanese or German, shop around--it's all there. Whatever you choose, try to get a table near an open-air window for optimum people-watching. Music-lovers should check out the Echo bar, a jazz club (featuring a creperie upstairs) where things get rolling around 10 p.m. Or if that sounds too mellow, follow the crowds roaming Bangsar's bars, bistros and pubs--or perk up with a cuppa at KLBC--a.k.a. Kuala Lumpur's Best Coffee. Now that's hot.

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