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HAND-OVERLOAD: When 442 years of Portuguese rule ends on Dec. 20 and the last colonial outpost in Asia reverts to Chinese sovereignty, don't expect anything on the scale of 1997's hoo-ha in Hong Kong. In keeping with Macau's laid-back style, the enclave's transition will be a low-key event. Portuguese President Jorge Sampai will officiate at his administration's official farewell, to be held Dec. 19 at a 3,000-seat temporary structure next to the new Cultural Center. The stroke of midnight will kick off a joint ceremony with China's President Jiang Zemin. The official Chinese celebration will take place later in the day. As it did with Hong Kong's handover, Beijing has installed a countdown clock for Macau's return on Tiananmen Square. And as with Hong Kong in 1997, mainlanders are celebrating well in advance of the actual event. Seized by the spirit, two university students from Henan began a cross-country tour in January to commemorate Macau's pending return. The pair plan to visit 19 provinces over the course of this year, arriving in Macau in time to take in the ceremonies.

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