Off the Beaten Track

Brassy sounds of Macau. © Richard I'Anson. Lonely Planet Images

Taipa Island

Traditionally a province of duck farmers and junk builders, with a small fireworks industry to satisfy the insatiable demand for bangers and crackers, the island of Taipa (just south of Macau peninsula), is rapidly becoming urbanized. Resisting the onslaught of progress is a sleepy rebellion of Portuguese colonial churches and buildings, Buddhist temples, overgrown esplanades and lethargic villages. Taipa Village, on the southern shore of the island, has picture-book charm--it's a leisurely sprawl of Chinese shops and restaurants, punctuated by grand colonial remains. The Taipa House Museum, in the village, is a snapshot of life at the turn of the century.

The Macau Jockey Club, in the island's south-west, is Macau's venue for horse racing. If you know your quinellas from your trifectas, this is the place to go. While Hong Kong's Happy Valley and Sha Tin courses close down for the summer, Macau stays open, attracting a pack of punters from over the border. Before you have a flutter, say a quick prayer to the Four Faced Buddha outside the course--he's supposed to bring good luck.

The United Chinese Cemetery, on the north-east corner of the island, is the final resting place of Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian Chinese folk. The graves face the open sea, a propitious vista according to the sacred laws of feng shui (though what good it will do them at this late stage, we're not sure). Among the graves is a 30m (98ft) high statue of the earth god, Tou Tei. Also in the north is the island's largest temple, Pou Tai Un, which overlooks the tennis court of the Hyatt Hotel. If you're around during lunch time, the temple operates a vegetarian restaurant, which serves vegetables grown in its own garden.

There's no budget accommodation on Taipa, but there are plenty of upmarket places to stay. There are also several good medium-priced restaurants. Two bridges span the 2km (1.2mi) stretch of water between Taipa and the peninsula, and buses run across them regularly. If you arrive in Macau by plane, you'll be landing on Taipa--the runway is on a strip of reclaimed land just east of the island.

Coloane Island

Further south than Taipa, Coloane was once a popular hangout for pirates--the last of the buccaneers was expelled in 1910, and the island still celebrates the anniversary on 13 July. The island is a largely unspoilt, sleepy kind of place, though a few hotels and even a golf course have sprouted in recent years. Coloane Village is the only town on the island, and still looks like a fishing village. Strolling around the village's narrow and cluttered lanes, bordered on each side by pastel-shaded shops and restaurants, is a joy. At the northern end of town you can visit the junk building sheds and see how these quaint boats are made.

The main highlight of Coloane Village is the Chapel of St Francis Xavier, built in 1928 to honor the saint who died on nearby Sanchuang Island. The chapel was once home to boxes of Christian martyrs' bones from all over Asia, but in 1995 the bones were moved to St Joseph's Seminary. South of the chapel, the Tam Kong Temple, dedicated to the Taoist god of seafarers, holds a 1m (3ft) long whalebone carved into a model of a ship, complete with sailors.

Coloane's beaches are very popular. Hac Sa, in the east, is the longest, and draws the biggest crowds, despite its black sand giving the water a polluted look. The area is beautiful, and on a clear day you can see the mountains on Hong Kong's Lantau Island. The nearby recreation park has a swimming pool, tennis courts, a football ground, mini golf, ping pong tables and badminton courts. They also hire out windsurfers and jet skis.

Coloane has all sorts of accommodation, from camping through youth hostels to luxury hotels. You can also get some lovely Portuguese food around town. Coloane is joined to Taipa Island by a 2km (1.2mi) causeway--buses run from Taipa and from the peninsula.