Introduction

© Martin Moos. Lonely Planet Images

Seoul is mega-modern and appealingly ancient. Partially destroyed by Japanese and Manchu invasions in the 16th and 17th centuries, and almost totally flattened in the Korean War, most of the city has been rebuilt since the 1950s. Peeking out from among the 12-lane freeways, overshadowed by high-rises, Seoul still retains a hidden history of centuries-old temples, palaces, pagodas and pleasure gardens. It also has cheap accommodation, excellent public transport and cultural experiences aplenty, and that's why most visitors to South Korea never get past its city limits. The Han-gang River bisects the city, with Chung-gu the central district, Chongno-gu (with most of the budget hotels and sights) to the north, and It'aewon-dong (packed full of shopping, bars and nightlife) just south of the city center.

Seoul attracted widespread international attention by hosting the 1988 Olympic Games, when political pressures spilled over into rioting in the months leading up to the Games. Since that time, however, the streets of Seoul have returned to their bustling, but peaceful, best.