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TIME ASIAWEEK ASIANOW TIME


about Asia Buzz

Culture on Demand: Chiang Rai
This northern Thailand city is enjoying a renaissance
By STAN STALNAKER

December 15, 2000
Web posted at 7:05 p.m. Hong Kong time, 6:05 a.m. EDT


Being in Chiang Rai, Thailand, for too long is truly frightening. The neon lights, the late nights, the bus fumes, not to mention the fatal attraction to branded goods...they all take their toll.

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The city, though, is countered by the lovely countryside and it is this combination that makes Chiang Rai one of the current "in-the-know" weekend spots in Asia. The small city located in the northern hub of the country is enjoying a renaissance as a favorite destination for Thai's in search of a short weekend break from Bangkok -- the metropolis of grand and slightly overwhelming proportion.

Tucked between the borders of Laos and Burma, Chiang Rai is just a mountain range away from the trials and tribulations that beset both neighboring countries. A frontier spirit prevails, but a certain sense of smugness is worn on the faces of visitors, who have discovered that a misty cool morning can offer greater relaxation than another morning baking on the chaise lounge in Phuket.

Little of the drama traditionally associated with this part of the world infiltrates the visitor. Between the neighbors over the hill and the fact that this is the heart of the Golden Triangle, one might expect the area to offer rather shady sorts of entertainment or perhaps a tinge of danger. The reality is beautiful countryside, with the accompanying slow rhythms and big bright stars. So don't worry, the machine-gun toting guards at the airport must be there only for dramatic affect.

North of Chiang Rai is where this ideal locale is at its sweetest -- the town itself is not a place to rest for long, but just outside, the visitor will find pursuits of pleasure: from jungle trekking and tourist-oriented elephant rides to golf on perfectly manicured fairways and greens. The golf here is good -- challenging, not too hot, not raining (this time of year), and the caddies would swing for you if they could. The Waterford Valley Country Club, which opened in 1996, is the only place to play, with its wide, undulating fairways and nice panoramas of the mountains and valley.

Other things worth noting: Bring mosquito spray and long sleeves for the evening, drink the bottled water, and spend at least one night out under the stars. Some Thai's like to just grab a knapsack and head out for the weekend, communing with nature to remember what makes life worth living -- and the city worth escaping.

Who knows, you may even see a python that's not a handbag. Imagine that.

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