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Culture on Demand: The Goss on Gucci
Pass the dog bones, please
By STAN STALNAKER
January 12, 2001
Web posted at 8:30 p.m. Hong Kong time, 7:30 a.m. EDT
What is the future of Gucci? That's the question on jet-set lips as the most
mega of brands enters another year of smart success on the runway and at the
cash register. Nothing this big can last forever (they say), and it is evident
that the famous house is entering new territory which will hopefully not include
any more python (soooo 2000!).
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Asia will have a lot to do with the brand's success, as a big piece of Gucci's
global strategy hinges on the region's insatiable hunger for designer goods.
Last month, it was announced that Tom Ford, chief design guru and style demigod,
was moving to concentrate more on Yves St. Laurent, the new gem in Gucci Group's
tiara. Tom will undoubtedly give YSL a good spit-shine, restoring the brand to a
respectable luster in an effort to attract the Bianca Jagger set and Osaka
tourist groups in one elegant swoop. Same planet, different worlds.
That leaves Gucci with Alexander McQueen, the fashion bad-boy recently poached
from rival LVMH. Alexander is likely to shake the applecart, which will probably
mean a breath of fresh air for the brand. It's not like Gucci is stale, but
lately they have had to resort to dog bones and diving flippers for new product
inspiration. Of course they are cute, and every dog needs a bone (so there must
be a market), but one does start to worry.
And how the grapevine worries! With revenues up over 30% from last year, a lot
is riding on Gucci's continued success, especially with the group's recent
attempts to polish YSL. Somehow I don't think Yves himself, who is now 70 and
watching the revival of his namesake, would jump for joy at a YSL dog bone in
his Christmas stocking. It's just not very Paris.
Meanwhile, among us masses, the ubiquity of the four little letters hit home
last week at a charity function for Gong Li's new movie, Breaking the Silence.
(It's about a little deaf boy and his mother's struggle to provide. It's quite
touching really, so go see it.)
After the screening, a group was seated for a banquet, where someone's Nokia
phone rested discreetly between the chopsticks and shark fin soup. Picking it
up, "GUCCI" flashed ominously as the welcome screen message. Upon scrolling
through the address book, we noted no less than four Gucci store phone numbers,
complete with the names of general managers scattered across several cities.
Upon inquiry, it was determined that this particular individual not only spends
his entire salary on the fabled products, but is on a first-name basis with
clerks from here to Milan. We didn't ask how they got that way.
This is the point where "over saturation" becomes a real possibility. Perhaps
Gucci needs some anti-branding before the backlash starts. It can't be far away.
Anyway, thank God we didn't scroll to "P" -- for Prada.
Finally, keep an eye on DeBeers -- reports indicate that the diamond namesake
may soon follow the trend by joining a major luxury group, with a possible
exclusive boutique network on the way.
Diamond dog bones, anyone?
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