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Culture on Demand: High Roller
You can bet on a perfect day in Macau
By STAN STALNAKER
December 18, 1999
Web posted at 7 a.m. Hong Kong time, 6 p.m. EDT
Much like a prodigal son returning home after a long weekend of gambling, women and fast cars, Macau brings to mind the phrase "day late, dollar short." It just about sums up most people's attitudes toward the territory, the somewhat scruffy (if charming) Portuguese enclave about to be returned to China.
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Even though it is a favored weekend spot for Hong Kongers and an interesting diversion for regional tourists, Macau suffers from an image problem that it doesn't totally deserve. Sure, it's totally cheesy, but that's what makes it SO MUCH FUN!
The prevailing attitude about Macau stems from The Complex, meaning, an inferiority thing linked to sibling rivalry, with one sibling being much bigger and more successful. While Hong Kong soaks up all the attention from the parental units in Beijing and manages to weasel the rest of the world into believing economic recovery is all about Disneyland, Macau often gets labeled as the triad-loving, gun-toting little brother that, while a bother, can be tolerated. It's the sibling that should be on Ritalin.
But the truth, like many things in the public perception, is far different. The fact is that Macau has some amazing qualities that make it a truly lovable place. And that should be applauded before Portugal chucks it back over the wall to the motherland at midnight Dec. 19.
First, it's entirely possible to have a perfect day in Macau. It all starts with the air, which is far cleaner than Hong Kong air. It's even breathable!
Upon arrival, there are two places to go: the Mandarin Oriental's newly refurbished resort (ooh-la-la) or the Westin Macau (which has golf). It used to be the Bela Vista for the jet set, with its gorgeous interior, nice view and swanky annual ball, but like much of modern Asia, the history and tradition of shameless social climbing are giving way to day-spa herbal treatments and bogeys on the back nine.
After you hit a few balls and enjoy a quick massage, trip around town on foot, stopping into some of the overpriced furniture shops and other antiquarian spots. Macau is a good place to buy freshwater pearls, and some of the storefronts along the water have excellent items.
Come afternoon, grab an egg tart and take in the local architecture as you spin toward Taipa Island, where the world's least-expected go-cart track resides. Buckle yourself in, plug your ears and challenge your friends to a round-the-circuit race. Leave your Dolce & Gabbana at home though, as the oil stains don't mix well, even with a cotton blend.
Now that you smell like motor oil and you've got helmet foam in your hair, it's time to head down for an early dinner at Fernando's, Taipa Island's premier Portuguese food haven. After you wait all night for a table, they'll set you up with delicious roasted chicken, chorizo, big mounds of freshly baked bread, prawns, sardines and enough rice to leave you glued to your seat. For drink, it must be vinho verde, and no, you're not driving, so it's O.K. to try the sangria as well.
After fighting over the last prawn, head back across the bridge to sample Macau's nightlife. Now, a word of caution to the internationally minded: Macau is not like Tokyo, Monaco, Las Vegas, Miami or even Bangkok in terms of great nightlife. You have to suck it up and get into the spirit of things as an impartial observer. Realize that the Russian girls standing in front of the Hotel Lisboa are not tourists anxious to meet you for your conversation skills. Bring your ventilator for the gambling hall inside the Lisboa, where the cigarette smoke is thicker than dry ice at a Leon Lai concert. Know your limit at the roulette table. Then just soak it all in. Grin. It's charming, in its own way. Just keep your sense of humor, watch each other's wallets and duck if you hear gunfire.
All of this--in its ultra-cheese, oh-my-goodness crassness--may fade once Macau goes back to China. It won't be so "dangerous." Casino mogul Stanley Ho will likely face eventual gambling competition. But as long as the air is nice, the architecture remains, port is a staple and there are places where locals sit and drink coffee while playing mahjongg all day, Macau will remain a special place. It's just that next time, having a perfect day will mean a trip to China.
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