Japan has always been an enigmatic place conveniently defined by cherry blossom
trees, geisha, sumo wrestlers and bullet trains. Before I moved there, my image
of the country was of Japanese skiers blackening snowy white slopes with a
density that was unfathomable to a young boy brought up on the ski slopes of New
England and Colorado.
Japan was also etched into my brain from the World War II photographs I saw in
Time-Life history books: the dead American soldier on a Guadacanal beach with a
single bullet hole in his helmet; the British soldier being beheaded by a
samurai sword-wielding Japanese officer; the horrifyingly beautiful mushroom
cloud over Hiroshima, and the rusted pocket watch that recorded that fateful
moment; and the Japanese weeping at the news of the country's surrender.
A continent away, my English-born-and-raised wife first discovered Japan in a
novel about Japanese dolls. The impression of that book was so powerful that 15
years later she graduated from Oxford and decided to become an English teacher...
in Japan. (She's now a journalist here reporting on Japan.)
One year ago, the circle was complete: our son Alexander was born in Japan. So
his perception will not be what's Japan like compared to the rest of the world,
but what's the rest of the world like compared to Japan. And while he will never
be Japanese (non-Japanese need not apply for citizenship, thank you), his image
of Japan will always be immediate and primal.
As my wife and I grow older, we spend a lot of time trying to understand this
strange and unexpected relationship with the Land of the Rising Sun. And what
surprises me to this day -- and after more than eight years of living in this
country -- is just how powerful my childhood images are of Japan. This is not
the case in other countries. I have long since abandoned my Charlie Chan-Fu Man
Chu view of China developed by a thousand childhood tales told by my father. And
I have no illusions of Buckingham Palace, tea with the Queen and beefeaters,
when I think of England.
Of course, eight years of living in Japan have supplemented my childhood images
with a rich tapestry of experiences that now define 'my Japan.' And yet, those
initial first impressions persist. Japan somehow resists the memory bank
upgrade. Could it be that Japan has never come clean about its geishas and its
wartime past? Is it because cherry blossoms really do stir my soul? Can it be
that Japanese ski slopes are still as anarchic and crowded as they were when I
watched them on our old black-and-white television?
What is it about Japan that provokes such powerful stereotypes? Part of it is
just how different the nation is than anywhere else on earth. This uniqueness
lends itself to the rapid stereotyping of its culture. It is a defense mechanism
of the brain that cannot adequately process Japanese imagery. I'm sure this is
also true about such exotic lands as Bhutan.
But Japan is not an isolated mountain kingdom. It is the second largest economy
after the United States. We eat, drink, sleep and get around with the help of
Japanese products. And yet seemingly more exotic lands like India or Africa are
easier to characterize.
If I believed in magic, I might argue that Japan casts a spell on all those who
gaze upon this island. A fog envelops its visitors allowing them to only see
what Japan wants you to see. Not that the Japanese are novices at this
deception. For 300 years the nation practiced a form of isolation that many a
dictator has dreamed of, but never accomplished. It also has a language designed
to obfuscate.
Japan is a nation so opaque that perhaps the best way to describe it is by
comparing it to watching the shadow of a body walking behind a shoji screen in
an old, traditional Japanese home. There I go again, resorting to just the kind
of cliche Japanese image that all of us cling to, and the Japanese do nothing to
disavow.
I guess the only guy in our house who will truly understand Japan is my
Alexander, my son. Too young to be spun by floating images of Japan, or the
mangled efforts of people like his dad and mom to explain the country, he'll see
it for what it is: a country of people just like you and me.
Peter McKillop has been writing about Japan for the past eight years -- first as
a journalist for Newsweek magazine based in Tokyo, then as a business executive,
and now as an Internet columnist for TIME. The son of an American diplomat, he
was born in Tunisia and was raised in Washington, D.C.