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Hope Amongst Despair
A school for the children of sex workers in Indonesia's second largest city offers some promise

JOHN STANMEYER/VII FOR TIME
This school in Kremil, Surabaya, caters mainly for the children of sex workers

Past parlors dimly lit by red light bulbs and fronted by slow-eyed prostitutes making eyes and offers, there is a green building with a telephone center on one side and, on the other, a rack stuffed with pairs of small shoes.

This place is deep within the Kremil neighborhood of Surabaya, Indonesia's second largest city. Kremil is one of many red-light districts in the town, one of the oldest in fact, dating back to the Japanese occupation of World War II. Women arrive here desperate for work, or they are imported into the area from nearby towns by men convinced that indoctrinating yet more women into the sex industry is an acceptable way to spend one's life. The lucky ones stay in the business only briefly. But there aren't many lucky ones. People fall through the cracks here, and right now the cracks -- in Surabaya and all across the country -- are gaping.

Then there are the children. Prostitutes get pregnant. It happens. And children are born of bought-and-paid-for sex. Pimps, claiming to be uncles or cousins, often become surrogates for these kids. Believe it or not, some of them are advocates of solid religious training, so they go looking for a teacher.

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That's when they might come to the green building. This is where Khoirum Syu'aib, 40, is trying to weave at least a few strands of a safety net. He runs the Diniyah School, a religious study program for neighborhood kids, funded mostly by the phone center. Round about 8 p.m., the second of the evening's two- hour sessions is in progress, this one for 9- to 12-year-olds. Wearing a white Koko (the gorilla) shirt and a blue sarong, and a white songkok (headgear), Syu'aib steps out to greet some unannounced visitors. Dark eyed with high cheekbones, he looks younger than his age, almost boyish aside from a thin mustache and the wisps of hair on his chin. He offers the visitors some water, then steps gracefully up a spiral staircase, emerging into the middle of a large rectangular room with chalkboards at either end. The voices of boys and girls reciting the Koran in unison echo off the linoleum, overwhelming the hum of a lazy fan.

Khoirum estimates that 70% of these smartly dressed students are children of sex workers. That wasn't his father's express intent when he opened the school in 1982, but that's the reality. From the balcony, Khoirum can point to several brothels. He thinks the number of sex workers in the neighborhood has dropped in the last 20 years, though he's concerned it's rising again in the wake of the 1997 economic crisis. He has a weekly Koran reading for women who've gotten out of the business -- pimps usually attend Thursday nights -- but some of them are again selling themselves.

Khoirum discusses this with an almost disturbing detachment. You'd think all the years spent watching lives decay faster than Surabaya's crumbling old facades would generate some anger. But he says his job is not to judge; it is to teach, and to love. Committing a sin, he says, does not disqualify the sinner from the house of God. If they want to return, they will be welcomed. Among his most gratifying moments, he says, is when he walks down the streets and a prostitute calls out an Islamic greeting from her perch at the brothel's door. "In my work, prostitution is considered a sin," he says, "but sociologically, it must be acknowledged. One must be realistic." Besides, he adds, the sin of the parent, theologically speaking, is not visited upon the child.

In class, following their teachers lead, sounding out the words of Islam's holy text, the children look and sound perfect. Their faces glow, their eyes dance with curiosity and energy. The questions usually come in the teenage years: Who is my mother? Why am I here? And the answers have derailed more than a few promising students. Khoirum says fewer are getting into drugs these days, but finding out your mother is a prostitute is never easy to accept. Depression, loss of esteem, fighting, petty and more serious crime -- it's a slippery slope.

Khoirum has a kind face, a gentle smile. He speaks soothingly, in a way that must be comforting for a child. His serenity might also stem from a realization that there's little he can do beyond his doors. The sex business is entrenched and readily accepted in this town. He'd love to see attitudes change, but that seems unlikely. So he focuses on the children, doing what he can to keep them safe within these walls.

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 home
 CHINA: In the Wake of the Admiral
Six centuries after Admiral Zheng He set sail, Adi Ignatius finds a China still struggling with its place in the world
 SOUTHEAST ASIA: Disunited Nations
Once a patchwork of sultanates and kingdoms, this teeming region now struggles to tame its multiple—and often conflicting—identities
 INDIA: Misplaced Majesty
The history of the thriving Malabar coast's entrepots that so impressed Chinese adventurers has been all but scuttled by the tides of time
 THE MIDDLE EAST: Arabian Twilight
The cities that were once the center of the world now hover at its remotest margins—but a few traces of their glory days linger on

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