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MIDDLE EAST: Arabian Twilight
The ports of Arabia once traded gold and frankincense. Now Pico Iyer finds Indians peddling makeup and wontons

Once upon a time ... The wealth and fame of Arabian ports drew Chinese treasure ships in the 15th century. Today, ports like Aden, Jeddah and Hormuz are obscure and unglamorous
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MIDDLE EAST
The cities that were once the center of the world now hover at its remotest margins -- but a few traces of their glory days linger on
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