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ANTHONY SUAU FOR TIME
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The ports of Arabia once traded gold and frankincense. Now Pico Iyer finds Indians peddling makeup and wontons
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Finishing touches ... a worker applies a splash of color to a newly
constructed dhow. Omani ships regularly made the trip to Guangzhou, China, with
crews hundreds strong and cargoes of several hundred tons, completing the
journey in 120 sailing days
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MIDDLE EAST
The cities that were once the center of the world now hover at its remotest margins -- but a few traces of their glory days linger on
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