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Marcio Madeira/Zeppelin.
Bulky bras worn over shirts and dresses was one dominate theme of Rei Kawakubo's autumn/winter 2001/2002 show in Paris this year. Although Japanese designers like Issey Miyake and Hanae Mori appeared on the international fashion scene in the 1970s, it was a decade later when Paris really took notice. And the era was one of excess: Kawakubo's first collection in 1981, with its frayed seams and misplaced armholes, was dubbed "Hiroshima chic" by critics.

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