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Bertrand Desprez/Vu for TIME.
But 20 years on, not much has changed. Western fashion editors are hard-pressed to name a fresh, up-and-coming Japanese designer, and those that are showing, like Junko Shimada, pictured center, have difficulty attracting the attention of people by the likes of Kaori Tsukamoto, fashion director for "Vogue" Japan. "I'm not going to (her) show," admitted Tsukamato in Paris.

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