Despite
its growing popularity, Kerala has all the charm of a backwater--the name
actually given to its network of canals, lakes and small rivers. You will
find none of the slick resort hotels that congregate around the beaches
of Southeast Asia. And none of the hassle and aggression that tourists
frequently suffer in North India. South India is different, as if an invisible
line had been drawn across the country below Goa and its hordes of tourists
and ravers.
Kerala is leisurely, unusual and fun. Start at the top at Kochi--or Cochin,
as it used to be known--a sleepy Macau-like port where the Portuguese
set up trading depots in the 16th century until they were pushed out by
the Dutch in 17th century. (They, in turn, were shoved aside by the British
in the 18th century.) For the best views of the city, take a ride on a
wooden launch. If you miss the boat you can always hire someone to row.
Head for Fort Cochin, a maze of narrow streets and old buildings, where
most visitors stay. Within this labyrinth is Jewtown, Asia's oldest Jewish
enclave, though most of its residents moved on to Hong Kong and Shanghai
more than a century ago. Its 400-year-old synagogue is decorated with
blue-and-white willow pattern tiles from China. Jewtown is the main source
for antiques, especially colonial furniture, in South India.
Afterward, head south to Alappuzha, formerly known as Alleppey, spend
a night on a converted rice boat in the "backwaters" and, after a day
or two, make your way to the sea. The backwaters are similar to south
Vietnam's Mekong Delta, featuring canals, lakes, banana trees and paddy
fields, only much less populated. If you like company and backpackers,
try grubby Kovalam Beach. I prefer to walk the coast and visit temples.
And if you want to be truly far from the madding crowd, there are many
small and medium-sized hotels tucked into the cliffside north and south
of Kovalam, where you can enjoy an endless ayurvedic R&R. One session
every other day, aficionados say, should be enough to remove the kinks
from your body and your soul.
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