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TIME Asia Asiaweek Asia Now TIME Asia story
JUNE 5, 2000 VOL. 156 NO. 22

Hot Spot

  TRAVEL WATCH
Shanghai Puts On the Ritz...
...again and again

Detour
Putuoshan -- a beautiful, windswept island off China's southern coast.

Hot Deals
With Shanghai's rich, international heritage, it's easy to send yourself back in time.

Short Cuts
Sex please, we're Chinese.

Hot Spot
Shanghai's Fuxing Park

Shanghai's Fuxing Park, located in the heart of the old French Concession, may not be the city's largest green space, or its most famous. But the former French military encampment, which spreads across almost 10 hectares, is certainly the most attractive and lively garden in the Chinese metropolis.

This bucolic oasis is best enjoyed early on weekday mornings (it opens at 6 a.m.), when legions of tai chi enthusiasts, ballroom dancers, fishermen, Long March veterans, chess players, opera singers and masseuses spread out across the heavily wooded park to work and gossip. The only foreigners seen this early are comrades Marx and Engels--or at least their granite-hewn likenesses, relics of the days when the East was a little more red.

Weekends find the park filled with children, the youngest riding the pocket Ferris wheel and a little train, both best described as "museum quality." A small pond attracts anglers and sun worshipers. Park 97, the sister restaurant to Hong Kong's Post 97, occupies a choice little corner; on sunny weekend days you can sit outdoors. Although the park officially closes at 6 p.m., the entrance on Gaolan Road remains open so patrons bound for Park 97 can visit for dinner.

Dean Monfort, the restaurant's manager, has seen some interesting things in the park in the past two years, mostly thanks to his irregular hours. "My favorite is a little old man in a Mao suit, easily 100 years old, who slowly walks the circumference of the park each morning," he says. "The strangest one recently has been a man who mimes making love to bushes."

J.I.

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