SEPTEMBER 4, 2000 VOL. 156 NO. 9

Hot Spots
By DONALD MACINTYRE

TRAVEL WATCH Tokyo's Chefs Get a Grip on Europe The Japanese capital doesn't usually get top billing with New York and Paris as an international culinary center. Until now Hot Spots A welcome addition to Tokyo's already lively entertainment scene is the winebar Short Cuts Veterans of Tokyo's vending machines will be disappointed to hear that many of them are going alcohol free Web Crawling Log on to the online version of Tokyo Journal, a city magazine that goes beyond band listings and wimpy movie reviews Food Stuff Like good chefs everywhere, the folks who run Tokyo's best French and Italian restaurants are always on the lookout for the tastiest vegetables Travel Watch Archive: Browse hundreds of Asian travel tips

A welcome addition to Tokyo's already lively entertainment scene is the winebar. With consumption soaring in Japan, especially among young people, watering holes catering to wine lovers are suddenly hip. Many places offer full menus to complement the cuvEe, so you can take in a full meal or finish off an evening of wine tasting with a light snack.

With a quietly chic decor warmed by wood floors and bistro-style tables, Vino Hirata (3456-4744) in Azabu Juban is a good choice for a quiet evening with a few friends. The wine list is extensive, with about 20 varieties you can buy by the glass. Bottles start at $45. The Italian menu is well-thought—with dishes like gnocchi and rocket (arugula) salad with parmesan cheese—although portions are small.

A few blocks away is Scala Dei, a bigger, modernist-looking space done in brick, stone and pools of gurgling water. Glasses range from $8 for a 1999 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand to $43 for a 1997 Chateau Margaux. But ask for a "tasting" and you'll get a smaller but decent-sized glass for half the price. This is a place to go with a lively crowd to sample some great wines. Vino Hirata and Scala Dei are a short taxi ride from the Roppongi entertainment district. If you find yourself in Ginza, check out the Grape Gumbo. Don't be put off by the name: Chef Toru Wachi is aiming for low-key eclectic, starting with his cuisine.

Try the "hot mix" salad—grilled vegetables, parmesan cheese and sherry vinegar. Grape Gumbo has a noisy bistro feel to it—you can sit at the bar and watch the chef cook if you want to avoid the cigarette smoke in the main section. But it has a quiet little wine bar upstairs for friends of the chef—ask Wachi for the recipe for his salad, and chances are you'll be invited up.

Write to TIME at mail@web.timeasia.com