SEPTEMBER 18, 2000 VOL. 156 NO. 11

Detour
By MORRIS DYE

TRAVEL WATCH Seeking Out Kunming's Hidden Charms Pssstt! Wanna know a deep dark secret about Kunming? Detour Why did the chicken cross the road? In the humble village of Jemeluk on Bali's arid northeast coast, the answer might be: "To take a stroll on the beach, of course." Travel Watch Archive: Browse hundreds of Asian travel tips

Why did the chicken cross the road? In the humble village of Jemeluk on Bali's arid northeast coast, the answer might be: "To take a stroll on the beach, of course." Free-range hens, pot-bellied pigs and giggly gaggles of local children share this pretty crescent of coastline with a growing number of travelers, who come seeking a laid-back alternative to the busy resort developments at Kuta, Sanur and Nusa Dua.

The three-hour drive from Denpasar skirts volcanic Mount Agung and descends between postcard-perfect rice paddies to the town of Amed. From here the road snakes along the coast to a series of somnolent beaches dotted with tiny fishing villages and a range of simple seaside accommodations. At the Diver's CafE in Jemeluk, a clean, fan-cooled bungalow with private bath and breakfast for two goes for around $7. Further down the road, you can pay upward of $100 for more stylish digs at the Hotel Indra Udhayana (62-0370) 26336. Either way, you'll revel in the same shimmering slice of the Bali Sea, the same pebbly black sand that sparkles in the morning light and the same bliss-inducing absence of traffic jams, cyber cafes and annoying hawkers.

For some visitors, the main attraction lies just offshore, where coral reefs and two accessible shipwrecks offer the island's best diving and snorkeling. For $5 you can set out with a local fisherman to angle for tuna, mackerel or barracuda. At the end of the day, there's a good chance your catch will show up on your dinner plate—right next to that chicken you saw strolling on the beach, for here in Jemeluk, the supermarket is all around you.

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