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KI HO PARK FOR TIME
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Royal Ramble: Find history at Gyeongbok Palace
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Korea's intricate history and political heritage is made accessible via a leisurely stroll in Seoul
By Donald Macintyre
MAP: Seoul
Nobody is quite sure what the Japanese did to Korea's King Kojong behind the closed doors of the royal reception hall near Deoksu Palace in downtown Seoul. But on Nov. 17, 1905, Japanese officials had a document that signed control of Korea's diplomacy over to Japan—and paved the way for a Japanese takeover of the peninsula. Koreans remember it as one of the blackest days in their history.
Korea's past is full of political intrigue and bloodletting worthy of Shakespearean drama. But discovering that history in the middle of modern Seoul isn't as simple as signing up for the Tower of London tour at the concierge's desk. The government does little to promote Korea's lavishly rich cultural and political heritage, and tour guides don't know the juicy stories. Today, unbeknownst to most, the room where the Japanese made King Kojong an offer he couldn't refuse is a ramshackle computer-filled office for an online shopping mall. Only a tersely worded sign out front hints of the events that took place there. There are experts to show you the way. By far the best Seoul heritage tour is provided by an expat businessman and amateur historian. Unfortunately, Peter Bartholomew runs the tour just twice a year. But you can arrange something similar any time. Package tour companies will help you customize an itinerary and make sure your guides bone up on their history.
Or, you can see the sights on your own. The best place to start: Deoksu Palace, one of five Chosun dynasty palaces in downtown Seoul within walking distance of each other. This is where King Seonjo moved in 1593 after the Japanese burned down Gyeongbok Palace, the main royal residence, in an earlier invasion of the peninsula. Deoksu Palace was also where King Kojong led a doomed rear-guard action against the Japanese—who had killed the Queen in 1895—desperately trying to play them off against the rival Russians. From Deoksu, walk up the beautiful stone-paved road that runs along the south wall of the palace to the remains of the Russian Legation. King Kojong sought sanctuary there from 1896 to 1897 after he fled from Japanese invaders through a secret tunnel linking the Russian compound with Deoksu Palace. The building was later bombed in the Korean War—all that is left standing today is a three-story white tower.
From the legation, head over to the Secret Garden at Changdeok Palace (the garden is a unesco world heritage site) and nearby Gyeongbok Palace, now fully restored. Near the wall at the back of the compound, you can find the spot where Queen Min was killed, now just a grassy field. A sign provides a brief explanation and there is a little pavilion with two paintings depicting the murder. There are history lessons everywhere, you just need to know where to look.
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