|
On the subcontinent,
fashion is far more diverse but not immune
to Western-inspired trends. The
salwar-kameez, Muslim in origin, followed
in its own way the '60s motto of less is
more, by creeping up the leg just like the
mini. Now when mid-calf and ankle-length
skirts are common, the salwar-kameez is
long and full again. There are reasons
beyond religious stricture that Indians,
Pakistanis and Malaysians dress as they
do. Climate is one: Western-style hosiery
and almost all synthetic blends are
torture in extreme heat. Indian designers
produce Western outfits in more tolerant,
natural fabrics like cotton. And then
there's custom. Brilliant traditional
gowns always glorify a wedding or a
festival. People are willing to spend on
quality and design. "There is a yearning
for something classy," says Tarun
Tahliani, one of India's most successful
designers. Neelofar Shahid, a Pakistani
whose ethereal clothes are worn by Jemima
Goldsmith, uses jewels, gold wire and
semiprecious stones to ornament her
salwar-kameez. This is about as far as you
can get into the precamera era, the glory
days when rich costumes were meant to be
slow, lavish feasts for the eye rather
than simple silhouettes that the shutter
can capture.
|
|
Whether because
of political dynasty or simply
because they are strong, women
have become leaders in several
South Asian countries. What they
wear and the image of their
countries they project are
important to their careers. In
Bangladesh it is often said that
Begum Khaleda Zia, who was Prime
Minister for more than five
years, prevailed over her rival,
Sheik Hasina Wazed, in part
because of her glamour; it was
clear that the public loved Zia's
chiffon saris, her expert makeup
and her aura of fashion. She and
other Asian leaders may have
looked to the image of Indira
Gandhi, who wore rich saris and
carried herself like an empress.
In Sri Lanka, President Chandrika
Kumaratunga also wears impressive
saris. The problem is Pakistan's
Prime Minister Benazir Bhutto.
The Harvard- and Oxford-educated
Bhutto, who wears the
salwar-kameez, is fashion
conscious. But what with
ill-fitting jackets and, worst of
all, garish colors, she flunks.
The verdict, according to a
fashion observer: "Very
common."
It would be easy
to say that in the future, Asian
design will be eclipsed by
Western clothing. But that is not
likely to be the case. Such a
vital cultural heritage will
prevail. Just beam a spotlight on
the American fashion scene and
see that every year it is more
heavily influenced by the output
of young Asian designers. Han
Feng's luxurious cuts and her
bottomless colors; Vivienne Tam's
cheeky wit, demonstrated last
year by her headline Chairman Mao
prints; Zang Toi's skills as an
exuberant, not to say blatant,
colorist; C.J. Yoon Ono's lyrical
evocations of-guess what?-the
kimono all point to the vital,
growing role of the Asian
imagination. These are potent
designers now, and they will be
stars in the future. Their
mission is not to keep the Asian
aesthetic alive but to impose it
on the 21st century.
-Reported by
Margaret Feldstein/ New York,
Meenakshi Ganguly/New Delhi and
Irene M. Kunii/Tokyo
|
|
