It was utter pandemonium: Thousands of screaming teenagers, scores of sullen cops and more rock stars than you could shake a stick at. No, it wasnąt the U.N. Millennium Summit — it was the annual MTV Video Music Awards. Mid-afternoon Thursday, the throngs took over the streets, and by rush hour, a three-block radius around Rockefeller Center was completely overrun by fresh-scrubbed Eminem fans and 14-year-olds craning for a glimpse at Papa Roach. A strange day in Manhattan, indeed. What time is it? About 6:30. But really, it's MTV time! And there's a giant, inflatable space guy outside my office building!

ART ROTHFUSS III FOR TIME.COM

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