hether he is making his famous Alsatian choucroute at home or preaching the importance of fresh, local ingredients to his students, Ferdinand Metz insists on quality above all else. Th e elegant 57-year-old who heads the Culinary Institute of America, in Hyde Park, N.Y., has rarely settled for anything less. "A great chef must have a passion for food and an undiminished penchant for excellence," says Metz, who, as one of just a few doze n master chefs in the U.S., has trained more than his fair share of culinary experts in his 18 years at the C.I.A.'s helm.

Beyond the best ingredients, a chef needs the right tools. Always seeking ways to improve the art of cooking, Metz has no qualms about using new technology both in the school and at home. While just a few years ago, his dozens of copper pots were among hi s most prized utensils, Metz's Bonnet Maestro induction-cooking suite now takes center stage in his comfortable home on the shore of the Hudson River. Using electromagnetism to generate heat, induction (which works only with steel or cast-iron pots and p ans) offers precise temperature control. "Induction is as responsive as gas, but it's much more efficient than regular cooking," says Metz, who cooks with his wife Carol every night.

That's not to say Metz has abandoned gas altogether. The suite still has two gas burners, along with a "flat top" that heats a large rectangular surface with a single burner to keep food warm. A roomy gas stove, a faucet and a sink for washing vegetables are included.

While many top chefs already use induction-cooking surfaces in their restaurants, only 2% to 3% of U.S. homes have them, says Grand Cuisine Systems' Sarah Wally, who installed Metz's suite. Portable units sell for as little as $1,000, but custom-built set -ups like Metz's start at $20,000. That could explain why Wally's clients make up an elite circle, from renowned Manhattan restaurants Lespinasse and Le Cirque to the home kitchen of Nathan Myhrvold, Microsoft's top R.-and-D. executive. No one ever said q uality comes cheap.