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CLASSICAL MUSIC

All Verdi All the Time
It's a nonstop Verdi celebration, with opera houses from Riga to St. Petersburg to Verona honoring the great composer

In addition to composing what probably should now be called the original Aida, Giuseppe Verdi wrote 25 operas, many of which are as popular today as when he died in Milan in January 1901 at 87. He was rich and admired — a poor boy who'd become a gentleman farmer and popular patriot — as well as a complicated genius who formed friendships that lasted decades and nursed grudges with equal fervor. He did not suffer fools gently. It is entertaining to imagine him strangling Elton John with a feather boa for concocting that brain-dead piece of Disneyfied junk now blighting Broadway.

This summer, with much of the music world feverishly marking the centenary of the composer's death, Verdi's Aida is making the rounds even more than usual. Set in Egypt, it was also first performed in that country in 1871, commissioned by Ismail Pasha, the Khedive, to celebrate the opening of Cairo's new opera house. Opera lovers need no reminder of its delights: the fabulous sets (unless you're in Germany, where elephants and pyramids are verboten by sternly modern directors), the affecting story of a slave girl and a princess vying for the same general in time of war and, of course, the music. There's a good deal more than the triumphal march: rousing ensembles, thrilling duets, arias both melodic and dramatic.

Connoisseurs lie in wait for the tenor to choke on the opening aria's high B flat or the soprano to miss the floated high C at the end of Aida's O, patria mia. (They usually oblige, and if you're sitting in the arena of Verona, where Aida will be performed 14 times this summer, expect olives and corks to fly through the air along with vigorous boos.) If you've never bothered with opera, Aida is one that just might turn you into a fan.

Verdi's own life would make a dramatic libretto. In his late 20s he nearly went mad after losing his first wife and two infant children to illness. Recovering, he wrote Nabucco, whose chorus of captive Israelites dreaming of their homeland became the theme song for the liberation of Italy from the Austrians in 1859. He married again, choosing the prickly diva Giuseppina Strepponi, and then, in late middle age, fell deeply in love with Teresa Stolz, his Milan Aida. He lived a life as multi-dimensional as his operas.

They float free through time and space into our own world, never mind that the protagonist is wearing tights and capes or the suffering leading lady is singing from inside a sack. Is there anything more heartbreaking than Rigoletto, the misshapen jester, crying against the cruel fate and the inhuman clods who have conspired to ruin his daughter? Or the sorrowful yearning of La Traviata's Violetta on her deathbed? Once witnessed, is it possible to forget the brilliantly conceived encounter between the reactionary King Philip of Spain and his glamorously visionary subject, the Marquis of Posa? The forces animating Verdi's characters — love, hate, honor, duty, jealousy — are with us still. He was not convinced of man's essential goodness, but his keen insights into human nature assure his operas will be around at the next millennial celebrations — even if we are not.

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There will be hundreds of Verdi opera performances in Europe this summer. Among them:

Verona, Italy
Perhaps the best place to see Aida this summer, if for no other reason than its spectacular setting, is the 20,000-seat Verona Arena. The cast to see includes the brilliant tenor Vladimir Galouzine or the theatrical French soprano Sylvie Valayre. The summer's all-Verdi program also includes Il Trovatore, designed and directed by old-timer Franco Zeffirelli, as well as Rigoletto, Nabucco and La Traviata. Arena di Verona.
Tel: + 39 (0) 45 800 51 51
www.arena.it

Orange, France
Three Verdi operas are being staged this summer at the Amphitheater: Aida, on July 7 and 10; Rigoletto on July 25 and 28; and Don Carlo on Aug. 11 and 14. The real star is the acoustically perfect theater, built by the Romans into a sloping hill. Chorégies d'Orange.
Tel: +33 (4) 90 34 24 24
www.choregies.asso.fr

Riga, Latvia
That gray Soviet look is gone from the opera house and the town itself, a medieval beauty. Look for artist Ilmars Blumbergs' lush production of Aida starring Irena Milkevièiute. June 9, 16. Latvian National Opera.
Tel: +37 (1) 707 3777
www.lmuza.lv/opera

Salzburg, Austria
Sell your firstborn for a ticket to Don Carlo starring Thomas Hampson as the protolibertarian Marquis of Posa and Neil Shicoff as the unstable hero. There's also bass-baritone Bryn Terfel in the title role of Falstaff — Verdi's final and grandly funny opera in a new production directed by Declan Donnellan. Salzburg Festival. July 21-Aug. 31.
Tel: +43 (662) 804 5579
www.salzburgfestival.com

Savonlinna, Finland
The festival's setting — a medieval castle — is spectacular. The repertoire includes Aida, the Requiem and Macbeth, with festival director Jorma Hynninen as the jumped-up Thane of Glamis. Savonlinna Opera Festival.
Tel: +35 (8) 15 47 67 50
www.operafestival.fi

Other Verdi sightings:
Peter Hall directing Glyndebourne's first-ever Otello
Tel: +44 (0) 1273 812321
www.glyndebourne.com

Valery Gergiev, at his Mariinsky Theater in St. Petersburg, Russia, conducting Otello and Macbeth during the White Nights Festival
Tel: +7 812 114 1211
www.mariinsky.spb.ru

The great baritone Willard White singing the title role in Falstaff at Aix-en-Provence, France
Tel: +33 (4) 42 17 34 34
www.festival-aix.com

What did we miss?
If you've got a favorite show, festival or exhibit you think we missed, let us know: send an email to mail@timeatlantic.com