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SHOE PALACE: The new Jimmy Choo corner in London's Harvey Nichols points to the new design direction



Jimmy Choo has a brand-new shoe. As creative director Sandra Choi leads the way with a few new additions to her design team, the company is matching the savvy strider with a new advertising campaign and, to showcase the image revolution, plans for a string of boutiques.

Last November, Choo sold his 50% stake in the company to Equinox Luxury Holdings, a venture-capital firm. Tamara Mellon, the company's CEO and part owner, has taken the money and run with it. The new designers were hired to create shoes and bags that weren't just perfectly practical, but also perfectly fashionable. Think diamanté encrusted into soles or brown satin slippers with floral details. And though they won't be on sale until spring, the design direction can be detected in the new shop-in-shop at Harvey Nichols in London. Italian architects Vudafieri Partners have designed a space that is modern-boudoir-like with shantung silks, crystal chandeliers and mirrored paneling.

To show off the new direction, Jimmy Choo is launching its first-ever major advertising campaign — by Helmut Newton. In a massive departure for the coldly cosmopolitan photographer, the ads — depicting a young woman perched poolside, a pair of heels by her side — are a technicolor dream. The changes in the stores, in the shoes, in the ads — from something pretty but pretty safe to something glamorous and glamorously dangerous — can mean only one thing. The era of decadence has just descended.



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FROM TIME MAGAZINE'S FASHION FALL/WINTER 2002-3; POSTED SUNDAY, SEP.22, 2002

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