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 Lauren Invasion What's behind Ralph's move into Europe?
07/29/2002
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TIME for Fashion The art — and business — of fashion
04/2002
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Clothes
That Say It All
Europe's first intelligent garments aren't cheap Jan.
7, 2001
Battle
of the Boring
Haute couture's old guard holds sway. Who cares? Jul.
23, 2001
Belgium's
Fashion Fete
Antwerp throws a $5 million party Jul. 2, 2001
Made
to Measure
Popular Spanish fashion group Inditex targets a new market May.
14, 2001
Putting
Sparks in Marks
British fashion brand M&S loses touch Apr. 15,
2001
Clothes
Vs. Fashion
Should it be art or commerce? Apr. 5, 2001
In
the Bag
Gucci's acquisitions create a stable of haute labels Apr.
2, 2001
With
Family Like This...
The strange tale of the Gucci dynasty Apr. 2, 2001
Born-Again
Christians
Is there room in the house of Dior for two designers? Feb.
12, 2001
Frock
Wars
If sales are an afterthought, how do you know who wins Feb.
5, 2001
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Polo.com
Ralph Lauren's online fashion and home design store
fashion.net
Features a fashion-specific search engine, news, message boards, chat, job listings
fashionwiredaily
Fashion news-wire, updated daily. Requires free registration.
The Fashion Page
Viewpoint on fashion styles, and trends, by Lynda Stretton |
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| Photograph for TIME by ERIC SWAYNE. Styled by NEELEY MOORE; Hair by MAARIT NIEMAL; Makeup by GEMMA SMITH EDHOUSE |
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| GUIDO MOCAFICO |
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CHRISTIAN LACROIX parachuted into the Paris fashion scene in 1985 with a poof skirt. The sheer excess of it revived what had become a moribund period in haute couture. Times change, and as '80s ostentation made way for '90s minimalism, Lacroix found his exuberant designs appealed only to the most outgoing of ladies — his haute couture clientele. Attempts at launching ready-to-wear, fragrances and jeans never really took off, and he went from being the darling of the fashion scene to a parody of it. The delightfully outrageous Absolutely Fabulous character Edina routinely dismissed uncharitable remarks about her attire with an acid-dripping, "It's Lacroix, darling." But as fashion swings back to the fantastic, Lacroix's boss, LVMH chairman Bernard Arnault, has decided to give him control over another brand in the group's stable: Pucci. Lacroix's eye for color makes him a natural for a house famed for prints, but his fondness for embellishments like sequins and lace could produce rococo à go-go. "I had to wonder every second whether something was too much or too less," says Lacroix, a 51-year-old Frenchman speaking in English. We asked him 10 questions to distinguish the Lacroix woman from the Pucci one.
WOULD EITHER WOMAN EVER WEAR ALL BLACK?
I would hope they both would. At Lacroix we sold so much! But no one ever noticed it. Ten years ago I did an all-black collection, but after the show a TV reporter said the colors were marvelous. I hope the Pucci woman will wear all
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I had to wonder every second whether something was too much. |
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black because there is black in the winter collection. I'm trying to infuse plain colors, and it's quite difficult to do. I think I have to make Pucci more digestible. I don't want the future to be too much vintage. It's presumptuous and pretentious, but I'd like to make it everyday.
WHICH OF THE CHARACTERS ON ABSOLUTELY FABULOUS WOULD WEAR LACROIX AND WHICH WOULD WEAR PUCCI?
Edina would wear Lacroix. Patsy, Pucci. What kind of jewelry would each woman wear? At Lacroix she wears rosary beads — multicolored and baroque. Or pearls mixed with junk. At Pucci she'd wear turquoise, coral — rough stones. who would throw a cocktail party and who would go for the sit-down dinner? Lacroix would have dinner, Pucci cocktails. Who is the ideal husband of each? The Lacroix woman is hesitating between her first husband, a man who manages the family estate, and her lover — an artist whom she supports. The Pucci woman's man is healthy and wealthy and cosmopolitan. He travels a lot and likes the arts.
WHAT IS THEIR FAVORITE SPORT?
Lacroix, being a spectator. Pucci — skiing, of course!
WHAT IS THEIR IDEAL NIGHT OUT?
For the Lacroix woman it would be a night at the opera or the theater. The Pucci woman would start at an aristocratic cocktail party and end up having a wild night in the underground part of Paris where she'd probably run into the Lacroix woman.
THEIR FAVORITE PHOTO OF THEMSELVES: PAPARAZZO OR PORTRAIT?
Lacroix, paparazzo. Pucci, portrait.
FAVORITE CHARITY OR CAUSE?
Lacroix, in aid of Africa or AIDS — good works. Pucci, Save Venice.
WHAT IS THEIR FAVORITE SHOE?
For Lacroix, it is a slingback. At Pucci, a stiletto. I just saw the first samples of Pucci shoes. I've never been so confident, so happy. They're like sweets! Both glamorous and sporty, girly and bitchy.
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