TIME EUROPE
October 16, 2000, Vol. 156 No. 16
An Afternoon Polonaise
Warsaw may not be Europe's most lovely city, but its citizens have style
By RICHARD HORNIK
Even business travelers who have a soft spot for Warsaw must admit that it makes a grim first impression. The Polish capital is a cautionary tale of what happens when you mix Bauhaus and Bolshevism. The German army systematically leveled the city toward the end of World War II, and the rebuilding effort was misguided at best. For years the tallest building in town was the Palace of Science and Culture, a
Stalin-Gothic confection the top of which, locals said, had the best view in Warsaw — because it was the only place in town you couldn't see the Palace of Science and Culture.
New office buildings have added a modern feel to the architecture of the city but have done little to improve its aesthetic appeal. What makes Warsaw special is the Warsovians. Even in the grimmest days of communism, the proletarian-on-the-street walked with a certain attitude and displayed a bit of flair, even if only by wearing his cap at a rakish angle. The Poles have long thought of themselves as the French of Eastern Europe, so as in Paris — the one on the Seine — when you find yourself on the banks of the Vistula with an afternoon or morning to kill, try a bit of people watching.
A good place to start is in the main square of the Old Town, though many of the people wandering around there will be visitors like yourself, since it's one of the few bona fide tourist attractions the city has to offer. So after soaking up a bit of history, head south along the impossible-to-pronounce Krakowskie Przedmiescie (try saying crack-ov-ski-ye pshed-myesh-che).
Aside from interesting people to watch, Warsaw has always had more than its share of good cafés from which to watch them while you recharge your batteries. The Café Bristol in the Bristol Hotel (Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44), restored to its Art Deco prime in 1993, attracts a well-heeled clientele. Across the street, in the woefully unrestored Hotel Europejski, is the Cukiernia Conti, which served real coffee and delicious pastries during even the darkest days — and shortages — of the communist era. Unlike the Bristol's café, it also affords a great view of the sidewalk, so you can watch the passersby.
Krakowskie Przedmiescie has several wonderful art galleries and a few intriguing shops. But as it heads south and its name changes to Nowy Swiat (no-vee svyat), it becomes Warsaw's toniest shopping street. And the swishest watering hole is Blikle Café (Nowy Swiat 33), which looks as if it belongs in Vienna. If you're in the mood for something a little less staid, cross the street to St. Traffo (Nowy Swiat 36), which also provides great views of Warsovians on parade.
To observe denizens of the night, the area around Krakowskie Przedmiescie and Nowy Swiat also provides rich pickings. Soma (Foksal 19) is just off Nowy Swiat on a street packed with lively bars, and offers an eclectic mix of music ranging from Salsa to funk to jazz. Near the Old Town, the popular watering hole Prohibicja (ul. Podwale 1) was launched by four Polish film stars and draws an interesting show-biz crowd. Finally, Rabarbar (ul. Wierzbowa 9/11) offers some pretty good jazz — and, of course, some great people watching.
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