TIME EUROPE
October 30, 2000, Vol. 156 No. 30
Hong Kong Havens
Where those in the know go to find calm and cuisine in Asia's busiest city
By DAFFYD RODERICK
Once you've had a suit made at Sam's Tailor, gnawed on chickens' feet and gaped at the view from the Peak, what's left to do in Hong Kong? Walking around in the city's oppressive humidity — let alone the pollution — can sap the joy from a stroll, and the noise level of local eateries can make you yearn for room service. What you need is a good night out that doesn't require taxis, public transport or even walking very far. Here are three great picks in the emerging area around Lyndhurst Terrace, just up the hill from Central, that offer an insider's taste of Hong Kong and minimal transport hassle. In fact, if you're truly lazy, you can use the world's longest escalator to each of these stations of epicurean contentment.
To give you strength for the evening to come, start with dinner at Blue (G/F 43-45 Lyndhurst Terrace, tel. 852 2815 4005). Open just a year, this hip eatery has become the darling of Hong Kong's foodies for good reason. Cushy, high-backed blue chairs, flattering light and dark hardwood floors make it a sophisticated setting for sampling dishes like spicy baby squid salad and tuna carpaccio with horseradish mascarpone sauce. The wine list is largely New World and has enough range to satisfy most palates. Once you've polished off your lavender ice cream, it's time to move on.
Out the doors and up the hill, pause for a cocktail at a cozy little place called the Club Feather Boa (G/F 38 Staunton Street, 2857 2586). It takes a bit of searching, since the only signage is a small "Members Only" plaque (ignore it) and a larger one that proclaims "Everyday Fun Laundry." Just search for the blue French doors and enter a world that's perhaps best described as a twisted fusion of brothel boudoir and Louis XVI's grandmother's drawing room. The Boa is a shelter from the raucous world outside, and you can take refuge on the velvet sofas and armchairs — padded with a liberal lashing of throw cushions — that fill the small room. Nestle down on your divan and order a goblet of wine or a large, cold glass of Tsingtao, China's favorite beer.
For a slightly more contemporary setting, head back down the hill to Ezra Lane, an alley tucked below Hollywood Road. There you'll find Antidote Bar (2526 6559), which is as stripped-down and modern as it gets. White sofas curve and snake down one wall, while the other is lined with intimate armchairs and stools. Fiber-optic lighting — synching the ceiling and the table tops — moves the room through peach, yellow and blue tones in time with the acid jazz beat. The white padded walls give this place the feel of a cozy asylum, and you won't want to check out until you've sampled at least a few of the drinks on the menu. Try a French Kiss (cranberry, brandy, pink grapefruit and raspberry) or order one of Antidote's delectable martinis.
If you're still in the neighborhood after the sun comes up, you'll probably be feeling the effects of a long night out. Relax, you don't have to stumble back down the hill toward Central. The escalator is one-way, and from 7 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. the direction is down.
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