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A Brush with History

Our correspondent's personal reflections on visiting Chevalier Conservation, the world's leading specialist in ancient tapestry repair


Some journeys are best measured in centuries, not centimeters. A mere two kilometers (three Metro stops) separates Time's new digs in Neuilly-sur-Seine from the Chevalier Conservation workshop in nearby Courbevoie, but making that trip involves a voyage far, far back in time.

Nestled in an inconspicuous courtyard on busy but unremark

THEO BAULIG
Inside the studios of Chevalier Conservation, leading experts in conservation and restoration.

able Courbevoie Street, the Chevalier Atelier has become a revolving door for some of the oldest and history-rich tapestries in the world. With several tapestries and exquisite rugs undergoing cleaning and repair at any given time, a visitor to Chevalier is offered a rare opportunity to literally brush up against unique works representing a physical link extending hundreds of years into the past.

At such close range, these fleecy historical relics lose any of the abstract nature that a cold and remote museum display often imposes. Instead they are the vibrant, colorful mementos passed on by the noble families, courts and forgotten dignitaries who commissioned and owned them so long, long ago

"The spark of those owners and the people who created these magnificent works are still evident in these tapestries," Conservation director Pierre Chevalier notes to marveling guests. "That's one reason why we work so hard to conserve them. Once these tapestries are gone, those sparks of our ancestors will be extinguished."

The skilled Chevalier restoration workers clearly share their boss' passion. Hardly a head is raised from work as strangers enter the workshop and wander through. A request to photograph a work station gets just a quick nod, and perhaps the straightening of a blouse. But the artisans otherwise refuse to be distracted. The mostly female staff realize their work plays a vital role in conserving the splendid tapestries before them, but it's a supporting role nevertheless. "This work requires you remain absolutely humble in relationship to these objects," Chevalier says. "Given their splendor and age, that's not a difficult thing to do."

Down a flight of steps from the workshop is Chevalier's office, a simple space decorated with a fragment of a Portuguese tapestry and a monk's table inherited from his grandfather — both dating from the 17th century.

Down another flight of stairs is the courtyard (and cohabitating motorcycle shop) and beyond a street clogged with harried motorists caught in mid-morning traffic jams.

Some distances are better measured in centuries, rather than centimeters.




photoessays:
Venetian Gondolas, Swiss Watches, Portuguese Wine, Swedish Glass, German Pipe-organs
onlinejourney:
French tapestries, Dutch flowers,
e-postcard from Småland
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