TALKING SHOP: Vineyard-owner David Baverstock talking to the Alentejanas (women from Atlentejo) in the vineyards at Esporão where old traditions and new methods live side by side. Baverstock is a 46-year-old Australian and the first foreigner to win Portugal's winemaker-of-the-year award. He is overseeeing the process of training the vines to the smart Dyson System of canopy management