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RUI XAVIER for TIME
APPLIANCE OF SCIENCE: David Baverstock tastes winein the laboratory at Esporáo. In the past, much of the Alentejo wine was heavy, oxidized, rough as the stony land from which it had grown for so long. Baverstock invested his boss's money in stainless steel tanks, temperature-control equipment, hygiene, a supply of American oak barrels and different bottle styles. “We make wine in a New World way using Old World grapes,” he says.
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