M I G U E L     A D R O V E R

PHOTOGRAPH BY RUVEN AFANADOR

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It's not easy being an iconoclast. Just ask Miguel Adrover, the New York City designer who has been hailed as a virtuoso since his debut three years ago but who lacks the requisite funding to show at Fashion Week this season.

Adrover, 37, regards clothes as a vector for social change. Trouble is, sometimes the message gets lost in the fray. After he showed a delicious meze of Middle Eastern­ and African-inspired silhouettes in September 2001, two days before the Twin Towers fell, he says he was accused by the tabloids of sympathizing with the enemy. "No one says anything about [designers such as] Michael Kors except 'Great skirt,'" Adrover says. "We have great skirts too. For us they say, 'Maybe there's a Taliban connection.'" To make matters worse, the Leiber Group, the luxury-apparel conglomerate that had acquired Adrover in April 2000, withdrew its backing in early October 2001. Adrover cobbled together the funding to show a spring line last September. It was couture lite, a witty and wearable riff on the New York immigrant experience, melding Hasidic, Latin, hip-hop and corporate styles.

Owing two months' back rent is a constant in his life, but so is resourcefulness; this is the person who turned a discarded mattress into a ravishing coat. It's just a question of where his pluck and ingenuity will take him next.

—By George Epaminondas

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Heidi Klum was photographed in New York City by Ruven Afanador exclusively for TIME. Navy suit and silk shirt with inset stripes by Miguel Adrover. Blue floral shirt and pants with ruching, floral hat and white leather oxfords by Junya Watanabe. Beaded black jump suit by Alexander McQueen. Fashion styling by Bernat Buscato; prop styling by Jocelyne Beaudoin; hair by Oribe—Oribe Agency for L'Oréal; makeup by Denise Markey; manicure by Gina Viviano—Artists by Timothy Priano

FROM THE SPRING 2003 SPECIAL TIME FASHION ISSUE; POSTED SUNDAY, FEB. 9, 2003
Copyright © 2002 Time Inc. All rights reserved.
Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

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