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Could it sound any less glamorous? Yet this synthetic rubber, used for fan belts, wire casings and hydraulic hoses, is making its way into the designs of some of the world's most prestigious fashion houses. For spring at Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs offers a white waistcoat and black floral miniskirt, and at Chanel, Lagerfeld weighs in with a gray fishnet jacket—all made of neoprene. At Balenciaga, Nicholas Ghesqui&232;re uses a neoprene-like fabric to make surferesque tops. And where the big designers go, the rest will follow.
What's the appeal? Dupont scientists developed neoprene more than 70 years ago, but today it is perceived as the high-tech material of the future. "Neoprene has a '60s-plastic influence," says Ken Downing, fashion spokesman at Neiman Marcus, "but it's very modern and directional." Indeed, soon after manufacturers realized that the insulating "elastomer," a fancy name for a material that stretches, could actually be worn, it became a material of choice for wet suits and outdoor gear. Now couturiers are drawn to neoprene for its texture, form-hugging fit and, most of all, versatility.
Neoprene leaves the factory as little chips in 50-lb. bags, but depending on the resins it's mixed with, it can be made thick or thin or can be "foamed" with tiny air bubbles. So the possible shapes and silhouettes are endless. Patricia Fields, stylist for TV's Sex and the City, thinks that like down, neoprene ultimately will be prized for its ability to insulate and will be used for shoes and leg warmers. Another advantage: sheets of neoprene don't have to be stitched together but can easily be glued with adhesives made from—you guessed it—neoprene.
—By Janice M. Horowitz
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