


"The ferryboat came churning alongside and the crowd moved
forward. We jostled together up the gangplank and chose one of
the slatted bench-seats on the covered top deck. The ferries
were Chinese owned and run, and very efficient, and we had
hardly sat down before the water was churning again, the engines
rumbling, the boat palpitating--and we were moving off busily
past the Kowloon wharves, past anchored merchant-ships, past
great clusters of junks. Ahead, on the island across the
channel, was Hong Kong, squeezed into a coastal strip a few
hundred yards wide, with the miniature skyscapers in the centre
and on either side the long waterfront, stretching for miles,
wedged with sampans and junks; and behind rose the steep
escarpment of the Peak, shedding the town and the lower social
orders as it climbed, until at the higher altitudes there
remained only a sprinkling of white bungalows and luxury flats
inhabited by the elite ...
I walked back after the cinema. It was nearly ten o'clock when I
reached the quay, but many of the shops were still open. There
was a busy noise of sewing-machines coming from the
shirt-maker's. Four thin young men in shirt-sleeves were working
at the back under a naked bulb. In the workshop next door a man
was welding: the bright white glare of the welding torch threw
shadows amongst the ceiling-high stacks of metal junk. Farther
on a red neon sign glowed over a lighted doorway. There was a
great clatter like the noise of a factory that grew deafening as
I approached--the most familiar noise of the Hong Kong night,
the noise of mah-jong. I glanced at the packed smoky room, where
the players sat clicking the white bricks on the hard-topped
tables. The clatter faded as I walked on. I passed the naval
tailor's with the glass window and the fat beaming proprietor in
the doorway and the blackboard beside him with welcome to all
members of in white paint at the top, and three numbers chalked
below--the numbers of the three American ships in port. There
were a few more shops and then the blue neon sign of the Nam
Kok. I could see Minnie Ho standing like a stray kitten outside
the bar entrance. I knew that as soon as she noticed me she
would say "Oh Robert! Please will you take me in!" It was a cry
I heard several times a day, because the girls were not allowed
to enter the bar without an escort: thus could the law be
technically satisfied that they were not entering for the
purpose of soliciting, and that the Nam Kok was not a brothel."
--The World Of Suzie Wong by Richard Mason (1957)
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