Rather than reference styles from past eras, Chalayan, who is Turkish Cypriot and based in London, molds each collection around a concept derived from outside the fashion world, whether it be the role of women in Islamic society (chadors of varying lengths) or the plight of families forced to leave their homes in times of war (the inspiration for the table skirt).

He is equally dedicated to exploring technology (plastic dresses with shifting mechanized panels, and fabrics adorned with computer-generated prints). "The only new work you can do in fashion is via technology," he says. "It lets you create something you couldn't have done in the past."

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Name: Hussein Chalayan
Age: 29
Why critics are taking note: The fashion designer molds his collection around concepts outside the fashion world like the role of women in Islamic society

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About the Series

Hussein Chalayan by JILLIAN EDELSTEIN‹NETWORK/SABA FOR TIME
Rollovers: Shigeru Ban by SHUZO OGUSHI/TIME, Greg Lynn by MOJGAN AZIMI/TIME
Hussein Chalayan by JILLIAN EDELSTEIN‹NETWORK/SABA FOR TIME, Ben Beck by CATRINA GENOVESE/TIME
J. Hoefler and T. Frere-Jones by JONATHAN SAUNDERS/TIME, Julie Bargmann by DANUTA OTFINOWSKI/TIME
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