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TRAVEL WATCH | MARCH 16, 1998 VOL. 151 NO. 10 |
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Don't Worry, You Can Still Be Happy In Bali By LEAH KOHLENBERG
For now, the answer is yes. A recent journey around Bali's heavily trafficked areas of Kuta Beach and Nusa Dua shows clear evidence of business as usual--from the crowded beaches to the bustling street vendors to the fetching young women combing the discos offering "massages." Though the U.S. State Department recently cautioned tourists to avoid riots, large gatherings and even "inter-city road travel" in neighboring Java, officials don't expect to extend the warning to Bali. Says Andrew Toth, the U.S. consular officer for the island: "Bali is quiet, there's no trouble and we don't expect any." This is due partly to economics and partly to culture, Toth says. Tourism is the lifeblood of Bali, with Asians making up one-third of the island's more than one million annual visitors. Some hotels and diving-expedition operators, for example, charge in U.S. dollars, minimizing the traumatic effects on the local population of the recent rupiah devaluation. And the Chinese community is more integrated into the kinder, gentler Balinese culture than they are into life in other parts of the country. "A prime example is my secretary," says Toth, who first came to Bali in 1969. "She is part-Chinese, but her grandfather was pure Balinese and she speaks Balinese and she's even studied Balinese dancing." That's not to say all is well in paradise. Although tourism hasn't plunged as it has in some parts of Asia, growth has slowed. And prices for staples such as rice and cooking oil have shot up as much as 300%, exacerbating social pressures. "If prices keep going up like this it will affect morale and there could be trouble," says Tewel. And trouble, even in Bali, could take on an anti-Chinese bent. "It's the Chinese who are making this crisis," complains Bali taxi driver Ketut Suartana. "They put up the prices of everything." But for now, at least, ethnic Chinese like retailer William Memet aren't especially worried. "Bali is the safest place in Indonesia," he says. "Those whose stomachs are full don't riot, and it's still easier to make money here." And as long as tourist dollars keep coming in, why bother messing around with karma? --with reporting by David Liebhold /Denpasar
WEB CR@WLING
GUIDE TO SLEEPING IN AIRPORTS SLEEP CHEAP Not all airports are created equal--particularly when a weary budget traveler is looking for a place to spend the night. This Website ranks the ultimate in free, in-transit accommodation. The world's airports--and sometimes train, bus and ferry stations--are ranked for comfort, safety and convenience, or lack thereof. The top picks: Brunei (for its "big round cushioned sofa-type things"), Singapore ("there's really no reason to leave") and Tahiti ("it's acceptable to put a sleeping bag on the floor"). The worst: Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea. "What I couldn't handle," writes a harried reviewer, "was the shoot-out which happened in the terminal between the cops and a local gang which resulted in three dead youths, one dead cop and two dead airport workers."
FIELDING'S DANGERFINDER PROCEED WITH CAUTION This site includes lots of warnings and disclaimers. With good reason: its encyclopedic death statistics and paranoia-inspiring country facts suggest that it's a dangerous world out there. The site does a brilliant job providing tips on transportation, safety and general travel needs for 32 war-torn, terror-ridden, natural disaster-racked nations. Even travelers who are not planning to include Somalia or Afghanistan on their itineraries will find the site's information on immunization requirements, long-distance access codes and personal security useful. And the uncommonly lively and sharp tone of the writing offers an adventure-inspiring read.
SHORT CUTS LITTLE BLACK BOX These instruments are critical in dissecting airplane accidents. But can the technology work on the road? Malaysia plans to install black boxes in each of the country's 4,500 tour and express buses in an effort to curb accidents. That's of particular concern to tourists: hundreds die each year in crashes--many of them bus-related--during the Hari Raya and Chinese New Year holidays. The black boxes, unlike their airborne counterparts, record only speed. If a driver exceeds 90 km/h, the time, date and rate are noted. Each violation can cost a driver $260, and after 50 infractions the engine won't start. Now if only they could fit stewardesses and a drinks trolly in the aisle.
DETOURS The sleepy seaside resort of Hua Hin--less than three hours' drive south from Bangkok--has long been a welcome refuge from the noise and pollution of Thailand's capital. It's also a prime, and relatively uncrowded, tourist destination. The beach is not spectacular, but the elegant Sofitel Central hotel is worth the trip. Set amid acres of frangipani and jasmine trees, the Sofitel--originally known as the Railway Hotel--was built more than 75 years ago. With sweeping verandahs and comfortably worn wicker chairs, it retains the graciousness of a large bungalow. Rooms, which range from about $108 a night for a standard single to $520 for a two-bedroom luxury suite, usually have verandahs of their own with a full view of the beach. The hotel's prim management is also a throwback to an earlier era: the standard welcome letter includes so many warnings about beach vendors that guests might think they are venturing into an urban jungle. In fact, the peace and quiet is idyllic. Tel: 66-32-512-021. |
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n Bali--probably more so than in the rest of Muslim-dominated
Indonesia--the Hindu-influenced islanders are strong believers
in divine retribution. "Balinese people believe in karma, so
they think twice before they do something wrong," says Njoman
Tewel, who rents motorcycles in Denpasar, the island's capital.
Such restraint is welcome news for travelers. As Indonesia's
economic crisis worsens, reports of rioting and
looting--particularly of Chinese businesses--are making would-be
tourists nervous. As Asians finalize plans for the spring
vacation season, the big question is this: Is Bali safe?