Grapes galore plus musical football

By JUDY FAYARD

ontpellier was founded in 985, and soon became a thriving port for commerce with the Orient. Its herb and spice merchants established what became the first medical school in Europe. Today, students at the University of Montpellier account for nearly a third of the city's population of 210,000, filling the outdoor cafes and restaurants of the medieval quarter around the Place de la Comedie.

To the west of La Comedie, streets of 17th and 18th century private mansions lead to the double-terraced Promenade du Peyrou and its 18th century aqueduct. To the east is the 1960s Polygone commercial center; the red-granite Le Corum conference center; and Antigone, a new city-within-the-city designed by Barcelona architect Ricardo Bofill. The Atger Museum houses 16th to 18th century French, Italian and Flemish drawings, and the Fabre Museum holds one of the finest art collections in France. Just outside the city, the 17th and 18th century aristocracy built their country houses, among them the Italianate Chateau de Flaugergues and the Chateau de la Mogere. To the south, the old fishing port of Palavas les Flots, locally famous for its nautical jousting tournaments, was once the only good beach along this section of coast.

For ticket-holders to the six matches in the slightly out-of-center Mosson Stadium, whose capacity has been increased to 35,500 for the Cup, the city has organized a fleet of shuttle buses that will operate continually from six hours before to four hours after each game.

Montpellier is the capital of the Languedoc-Roussillon region, the largest wine-producing area in France, where 17 different grape varieties produce wines that are starting to measure up to their cousins in Bordeaux and Provence. One of them, the dry white Picpoul de Pinet, traditionally accompanies the local oysters of Bouzigues.

One of the best bargains in town is the $35 lunch menu at the three-star Le Jardin des Sens, run by chefs Jacques and Laurent Pourcel. No relation, Le Petit Jardin offers good local specialties, and Chez Marceau serves simple southwestern food on its shady terrace.

Local food, wine, arts and crafts will be on display during the World Cup in Le Village, on the esplanade facing Le Corum. There will be a world premiere of Ocean, choreographed by Merce Cunningham to music by John Cage, and a unique "Match-Concert" on June 14 on the Place de la Comedie: beneath a giant screen replay of the historic France-Brazil game of the 1986 World Cup, two orchestras will interpret the game, with (musical) scores by Rene Koenig for France and Enrique Diemecke for Brazil.