By HANNAH BEECH

s Hollywood has embraced all things Victorian, with film adaptations of Charles Dickens and Jane Austen, it's no surprise that luxury hoteliers are also being lured by the spell of old-world charm. Unfortunately, building a plywood movie set is much easier than refurbishing a forgotten turn-of-the-century inn. A recent rash of renovations has littered Asia with plush hotels that are long on luxury but short on authenticity and charm. Case in point: the Strand Hotel in Rangoon, which received a face-lift four years ago from Amanresorts, after having crumbled into disrepair decades ago. Although the 97-year-old hotel is now undeniably posh, the teak colonial touches seem forced, and the hotel lacks the attentive service you might expect for $425 a night and up. Equally disappointing is Raffles International's pair of hostelries in Cambodia: Hotel Le Royal in Phnom Penh and the Grand Hotel d'Angkor in Siem Reap. Both are sterile facsimiles of deluxe French style. If you're going all out, it's better to stick with the truly grand hotels:

RAFFLES HOTEL, Singapore. Lavishly refurbished in 1991, the Raffles is proof that careful renovation can breathe fresh life into a dilapidated charmer. The hotel's 104 neo-Renaissance-style suites have been redecorated to reflect their turn-of-the-century heyday, with 4.3-m ceilings and antique oriental carpets. Somerset Maugham and Rudyard Kipling once strolled in the lush gardens, where Singapore's last tiger lurked in 1902 before it dashed into the Bar & Billiard Room and was shot. (Tel: 65-337-1886; double-occupancy courtyard suites start at $413)

THE TAJ MAHAL HOTEL, Bombay. Overlooking the Gateway of India, a triumphal monument to colonialism that marked King George V's 1911 visit, the Taj was actually built in protest of the Empire. J.N. Tata was allegedly refused a stay at a British-owned hotel because he was Indian, so he decided, in 1903, to build his own airy masterpiece. Today the hotel is a favorite among Bombay's elite. (Tel: 91-22-202-3366; double rooms in the old wing start at $290)

THE PENINSULA, Hong Kong. Looking out of the Peninsula's windows onto neon-bathed Victoria Harbor, it's easy to forget that the hotel lobby's fluted pillars and crystal chandeliers were once almost too extravagant for sleepy Hong Kong. Even today, the Pen continues on the cutting edge, with a high-tech business center and helipads. Still, history is not lost on the grande dame, and the Pen's Cantonese restaurant, Spring Moon, will re-open in the fall with the stained glass and wood paneling characteristic of the hotel's founding 70 years ago. (Tel: 852-2366-6251; superior rooms start at $375)

THE PEACE HOTEL, Shanghai. Nothing conjures up the lost sumptuousness of the Paris of the East more than the hastily renovated Peace Hotel, a somber edifice partly built by one-time opium trader Victor Sassoon in 1929. Although the hotel trades more on its opulent past than any modern amenities, the musty Art Deco building that stands at the junction of the historic Bund and frenetic Nanjing Road still evokes an era when the hotel was a cool haven from the din of gambling dens and the lure of opium smoke. (Tel: 86-21-6321-6888; standard rooms start at $160) --By Hannah Beech

KITSCH REPORT

Imagine: airline food to go! the chicken curry All Nippon Airways serves in first class is so popular that the airline is now acquiescing to passenger requests to take the spicy dish home. ANA recently began selling a box of six curry servings for $36 to onboard customers. No plans to fly? You can buy the airline dish at several of Japan's Takashimaya department stores, or order it through the ANA Sky Shop (Tel: 813-3780-7878)--but you have to pay extra for tax and shipping. In other airborne gustatory news, Swissair is accommodating the demand for organic food, serving "naturalgourmet" meals on flights out of Switzerland. The airline vows that by 2000, 90% of its inflight food will be pesticide-free. The self-styled "refreshing airline" also plans to offer organic wine, beer and coffee.

WEB CR@WLING

HEALTHY FLYING
(www.flyana.com)

FLYER BEWARE Former flight attendant turned consumer rights activist Diana Fairechilde advises travelers of their rights--and airlines' wrongs. Her website urges passengers to demand more air, avoid the food and protect their lungs against coughers and pesticides. Faire-childe's 21 years in the industry and 16 million air kilometers have given her sympathy for the customer. She'll even tell you how to talk your way into first class.

ROADNEWS
(www.roadnews.com)

COMPUTING ON THE RUN Laptop road warriors now have a website to call their own. Roadnews' library of articles covers such topics as getting online in Japan, while its resources section lists roaming Internet access providers, explains the vagaries of business centers and points the way to technical support services around the world. The site's sponsors would love you to buy one of their phone adapters or laptop travel accessories, but they make the pitch in a nice, low-key kind of way.

SHORT CUTS

DEALS ON WHEELS Now may be the time to book that Eastern & Oriental Express rail journey between Singapore and Bangkok you've long dreamed about. Twin-sharing passengers receive up to four nights' free stay at the Oriental hotels in either city. The offer is valid until Sept. 15, so dig out that smoking jacket and get ready to roll.

On the other side of the tracks, if you have a yen to see Japan this summer but don't want to mortgage your home to finance the trip, consider the country's 21,000 km of railway lines. One of the best travel bargains going is the Japan Rail Pass, which allows unlimited travel on the extensive JR network. The passes are available only to non-resident foreigners who purchase them outside Japan from authorized sellers, such as All Nippon Airways. They are valid for 7, 14 or 21 days. Adult passes in ordinary class cost $205 for one week, $328 for two and $419 for three. Green (first class) passes cost more, while children ages 6 to 11 are charged half for either plan. There are 26,000 departures each day, and you pay extra only if you choose a non-JR railway connection along the way.

DETOURS

Soho, London. Soho, New York. Soho...Hong Kong? South of Hollywood Road in Hong Kong's Central district, food-lovers are tucking into the once-quiet neighborhood between Staunton and Elgin streets. Step off the Mid-Levels Escalator past Hollywood Road to experience ragin' Cajun food at The Bayou (book early for gospel and crawfish at its popular Sunday brunch). Proceed uphill to Staunton Street (a namesake cafe is on the corner) for ambience galore and tastes of France, Italy, Nepal, Vietnam and Malaysia. The feast continues a few steps up on Elgin Street, an eclectic stretch featuring Mexican, Japanese and northern Chinese restaurants.