Time Travelers: Northern Exposure

Many are the wonders of modern tourism--economical packages, efficient tours, reliably standardized accommodations, every detail adjusted to make the traveler feel at home while abroad. The drawback, of course, is that it's so bland and formulaic (museum, monument, gift shop, beverage! Repeat!). Hence there are vagabond travelers who remain determined to avoid all that--to seek out destinations that offer interest and beauty but don't seem geared for the masses. While living in Scotland a few years ago, I was one of those. I wanted to travel to the farthest reaches of Great Britain, far away from Stonehenge and Loch Ness. I traced my finger on the map and landed on the Shetland Isles, an archipelago that lies at the intersection of the North Sea and North Atlantic Ocean, 180 miles northeast of Scotland.

For many, the word Shetland evokes ponies, wool sweaters and sheep dogs. And yes, all of those things are there in abundance. But beyond such attractions, I discovered a magical place untainted by consumerism; an unpretentious, gorgeous landscape; and a small-town feel that is wonderfully distinct from that of any small town you have ever been in.

Though under the jurisdiction of Scotland, the Shetland Isles are nearer to Norway, and the majority of Shetlanders descend from the Norse, who inhabited and ruled the isles from A.D. 900 to 1469. Shetlanders are quick to point out and celebrate their Viking lineage. On the last Tuesday of every January, the famous Up Helly Aa Viking fire festival takes place. Teams of torch-bearing men in Viking outfits parade through the streets of Lerwick, then make their rounds to various sites to perform skits. Legend has it the pagan event used to mark the end of Yuletide and was meant to conjure the sun to appear after the long, dark winter.

With peaks as high as 1,475 ft., the Shetlands offer hearty hikes for all levels. Climbing along the craggy cliffs and through the long inlets (voes), you feel a bit like a Viking yourself. Shetland is one of the best places in the world to see an abundance of seals and otters, and you can view them at an astonishingly close range. The latter, especially, thrive in waters off the barren coastline, which is rich in fish. A cloudy day is one of the best times to go otter watching.

Lerwick is the largest port town in Mainland (the misleading name for the largest island) and the heart of the Shetlands. When someone from the outer isles speaks of those who have moved to Lerwick, it could be the lament of someone from the Ozarks who has lost a loved one to the mean streets of Manhattan. But Lerwick (pop. 7,280) is an Old World village, with a bustling harbor and historic stone monuments. The main drag, Commercial Street, set back from the esplanade and guarded from the wind, is a winding, echoing cobblestone path lined with appealing shops.